Getting Crabs in Coos Bay

If I’d have known catching crabs was so much fun, I’ve have done it years ago.

After we got evicted early from Beverly Beach, we headed south down the coast to Coos Bay.  With the Cards making a deep postseason run, and having licked the cable tv setup issue in Portland, I lobbied for a “commercial” campground (non State Park, and thus Cable TV).  Kim shut me down. 🙁

Fortunately for me, once we found the State Park, and toured the available spots, there really weren’t any (only one spot long enough for us and it was all the way upfront by the registration).  So, Kim (finally) took pity on me and agreed to go to “Oceanside RV Park”, where cable TV was offered.  Yay!.

The first afternoon there, I hung out at the RV (some alone time), and Kim took the kids over the beach.  Kane came back and announced that “it was the best beach I’ve ever been to!”.  I guess the tidepooling was terrific.

The first full day, there Kim had planned to go crabbing (catching crabs).  After she talked to a few folks and scoped it out, and she relayed that “it’s been slow”, I pushed pretty hard to skip it and go do a hike or something.  I just couldn’t imagine getting a license, renting gear, fumbling our way through learning the technique, spending 3/4 hours, and not getting anything.  For the record, though, my heels were not dug in deeply!  We compromised and we went crabbing.

The bait shop near the marina was closed, the owner left a note on the door saying “I had to take my kid to the doctor, be back at 12:30”.  We need to be crabbing at lowtide… 11:00.  I pushed back again, and failed again.  Kim ran over to the little place on the dock, and got the scoop.  We could rent all the gear there, but we would have to buy a license elsewhere (the Oregon license bureau).  We headed over to the bureau.  Kim and I had a bit of a mexican standoff.  I was trying to get her to go in and get the license (and hence be responsible for doing the crabbing), and she wanted me to do it.  We compromised and I went in to get the license.

The ladies at the license bureau were really friendly and helpful (mostly).  I got my license, and they took 10 minutes to fill me in on where to go, the regulations, how to id Dungeness, Red Rocks, Male/Femail etc.  How to measure them (they gave me a measuring tool).  Everything was good, until I asked them to root for the Cardinals that night.  One of them was “born in Orange County”, and seemed a little miffed by the request.  The license was good 3 days and cost  $11.50.

Off to the pier to rent gear.  We got the “Crabbing Special”… one “crab ring” (collapsible basket with rope), two “bait bags” (plastic mesh bag for holding bait, two baits (one salmon head, one tuna head), a bucket and a measuring stick.  We had borrowed a crab ring (smaller one) from our campground office, so this gave us (in theory), two complete setups.  The extra bait and bait bag were 4 bucks, so we were in for $14.

The gals at the license bureau told me not to fish at the dock where the bait shop was… it’s over fished.  They told me to go to the other side of the bridge (across the town of Charleston), and find the “T” shaped pier.  The super nice guy at the bait shop told me how to get there.  So we went there.

When we got there and walked out onto the pier, there were actually 4 docks branching off of the pier.  There were boats parked along the outermost docks, and the inner docks were void of boats.  It looked like there were people crabbing on each, though not many.  We decided to pick the inner dock and avoid the boats altogether.  It was a great choice.  On this doc, there was one guy with a little girl crabbing.  As we walked down, we shouted to him… “do you mind if we join you?”.  He said “sure” so we set up just down from them.

Nolan and Cherokee were not first time crabbers, in fact, Nolan grew up in the area, and seemingly has tons of free time. He’s crabbed everywhere in Charleston, and “this spot is the best”.  Sounds too good to be true, but great!  We had a great time, picking Nolan’s brain, learning the finer points of technique (especially for how to throw out the ring… like a frisbee, then give it a “jerk” after it sinks to make sure it sinks rightside-up), and also how to hold the crabs without getting clawed.

There are varying schools of thought on how often to pull up the rings.  We’d heard that the big ones come and go (they don’t hang out on the ring for long periods), so we decided on 10 minutes.  We used Kims iphone as our timer, and we were all “Giddy” when we heard the “dog barking” alarm go off on Kim’s phone.  Every time we pulled up the rings, we had crabs in the basket!  It was soooo fun!  Usually, we had 5-10 crabs, some mix of Dungeness and Red Rock, varying sizes.  We started out keeping all of the Red Rocks (they are not indigenous to the area, and you can keep any size/sex), and “keeper” dungeoness (5 and 3/4 inches wide across the shell).

We’d pull up the ring, measure any large Dungeness, and throw our loot into a cooler of ice.  Later on, we threw the smaller Red Rocks back, and kept our 2 keeper Dungeness, and “larger” Red Rocks.

I apologized to Kim as I was totally wrong about the crabbing.  It was fun as heck, and something I’ll remember forever.

Toward the end of the crabbing, Kane (who was careless at times with handling the crabs), had a large Red Rock crab latch onto his pinky!  He was screaming, I was trying to put my gloves on, and Kim was shouting at me “help him!”.  I was able to get it off after probably 20 seconds, but those suckers are STRONG!  It was a good lesson.

One the way home, we stopped at the seafood store and bought some fresh Tuna for a fish fry. We wanted to try to replicate the “Bowpickers” fish-n-chips from Astoria.  Then we stopped by the campground office and borrowed their huge stock pot.

That night, boiled the crabs outside over our coleman gas grill, and beer-battered and fried the tuna inside on the stove.  All the while watching the Cards game.  Ultimately, the crab was too difficult to harvest to be awesome(we understood why “most people don’t bother with Red Rocks”).  I don’t eat crab anyway because of a suspected allergy and migraine headaches.  The tuna and potatoes were “very good” (not competition for Bowpickers yet).  But what a day!

The next day, we debated a few options, and ultimately decided on “sand sledding”.  The Sand Dunes recreation area (40 miles of sand dunes) was just 1/2 hour north of us.  Kim had read a lot about Dune Buggies, Sand Boarding (like snow boarding), and Sand Sledding.  We decided that best value in experiencing the dunes would be to rent or buy a sled.

We found a rental place after some searching, and in a moment of clarity opted to rent one sled for “all day” (20 bucks).  I figured, we long pole in the tent would be energy to climb the hill, and I wasn’t sure Kat (nor I) would be up for more than 1 run.  The sleds are kind of like wake boards (just a wood board with two handles and a fiberglass bottom layer).  The guy who rented it to us, gave us a map/directions to a good place, and said “be generous with the wax”.  Put it on, and slide the sled on the sand to make it slick.

We drove out (another 10 miles north) to the park, and it was amazing. There were woods, with a short path to a 5 acre lake, and one entire side of the lake was adjacent to a massive sand hill (150 yards long, and > 45% slope down).  On the way over, I explained the ground rules of the sled… nobody climbs the hill without the sled.  You wanna sled, you get it up the hill yourself, and don’t leave anyone stranded at the top of the hill without the sled.  So of course, when we got there, we all immediately climbed to the top of the hill, and I carried the sled.  Oh well, it was a good idea.

When we got to the top of the hill, we were treated to a real view of the sand dunes.  Sand hills as far as the eye can see, ending at what looked like the ocean.  It was amazing and worth the effort by itself.

The backside of the “big hill to the lake” offered some more modest runs, and we decided to cut our teeth there vs the big one.  Kane went first.  I waxed the board with the “wax for hot weather”.. evidently 70 is hot here.  Kane had a nice run down to the bottom of the slope and fell off.  He came back, and it was Kat’s turn.  She seems to be a natural (and light), so she went about twice as far down the “less steep” part of the hill.  Not to be outdone, on Kane’s next run, he started pushing him self down the less steep area with his hands, and managed to go “over the cliff” at the bottom.  He went to an area that I could not see, and had not seen.  All I heard was a scream, and he disappeared.  I waited about 10 seconds, called to Kane, and didn’t get a reply, so I put my camera down and “ran”.  He was OK, and had just shot down into a ditch (it was steep, but not that long).  Climbing back up was rough!  The sand in some areas is very “slippery”.  Take a 2 foot step up the hill, and make 6 inches of progress?

After a few more practice runs, we went to the other side (lake side).  Kane had a hard time getting going, and I wasn’t sure if it was all the footprints, or lack of wax.  (I was not yet convinced the wax was helping much).  So I used the regular wax, and put a full coat on.  Kane “flew” down the hill.  He got to within 30 feet of the lake and had to “ditch”.  He flipped 2/3 times (thankfully the board didn’t hit him), and the board slid (by itself) all the way into the lake!

Kane was OK (lost his sunglasses and face covered in sand), and Kat got the board.  Kat brought the board up to the top (what a trooper), and announced that she didn’t want her turn.  I gave it a go, and had a similar experience to Kane, though I didn’t ditch at 30 feet out, I wiped at 50 feet out.  In hindsight a bad idea because my camera bag ended up getting a bunch of sand in it and my camera had sand on it.  Thankfully, I don’t think Kim was videoing, otherwise, my pride might have been damaged more than the camera.

It was a great day.  It was also the day our dear friend Stephanie got remarried, and as a result, we were getting texts from friends at the wedding.  Kim was feeling really low about not being there, and I was spending a lot of time thinking about my buddy Jeff (Steph’s first husband who died).  Jeff would have been our biggest fan on this journey, no doubt proud of us.  Jeff also would have shredded that sand boarding hill(probably while yodeling and wearing a sombrero).

Lifes a (Beverly) Beach on the Central Oregon Coast

Not surprising that in between the Northern Oregon Coast and the Southern Oregon Coast, we visited the Central Oregon Coast!  We’re on a roll here with Oregon State Parks, they are super awesome (wooded) and motorhome friendly (large sites and elec/water hookups).

This was a quick visit (2 nights and 1 full day), mostly because we got kicked out of our campsite.  (unbeknownst to us, our spot was reserved for the third night already), but we made the most of it.

The kids and I did lots of hiking and mushroom hunting around the campgrounds, and during our one full day there, we drove up and down the coast to catch some highlights.

Devil’s Punchbowl was a favorite.. we’re suckers for caved in geological features!

Keeping it Weird in Portland

For a nice break from nature, we scooted over to Portland for a few days. My Nephew, Mike Arps Jr (my sister DeeDee’s son) and his wife Mika, recently moved to Portland and are expecting Iris (their first) any week now. They moved from the SF Bay area about a month earlier to escape the crime, commute, and cost of living. So far, they’re loving Portland (actually they live in Beaverton just West of Portland).

Anyway, it was great to socialize with family for the first time in 3+ months! Also, Mike is a gamer (as in German board games), and was also eager to “get it on!”.

We rolled in Friday afternoon, and camped in Beaverton about 10 minutes from their apartment. We met them for Thai food Friday night, which was great. Then they came over to visit us at the campground. After a short visit, and kids going to bed, Mika took the car home, and Mike, Kim, and I fired up the games. We hit it pretty hard until about 4:15 am, and slept in until about 9:30. The morning was rough, but the kids were great about not waking Mike on the pull-out sofa.

We had planned to go downtown to visit the farmers market and “VooDoo Doughnut”. Since Mika had not yet recovered from the Thai food, the 5 of us parked the jeep at “park-n-ride”, and took the train downtown. The kids really enjoyed waiting for and riding the train (and it’s fast). Mike takes this train each day to work, so he knew the drill. We got off the train right near pioneer square and in the middle of the market.

From there, we made the short walk to VooDoo Doughnuts. Quite a line (probably 300 feet?, and great for people watching. A few buskers, people in costumes, panhandlers etc. Surprisingly, the line went fast and it only took 40 minutes to get in.

A funny thing happened when we were waiting to get a cashier to order (we were next in line). There was a single guy (probably early 30’s) in front of us, we could tell he was placing a very specific order, but his voice was down so we couldn’t hear. The cashier was hustling to fill his “pink box”, and then he came back to the counter and “shouted”… “We’re all out of cock-n-balls, sorry, is there anything else I can get you instead?!?!?”. I just about lost it. I couldn’t help but think of a scene from the Woody Allen movie “Bananas”, where he’s buying a porno mag on the sly and stacks in in between Newsweek, Time, SI etc. The cashier gets to the smut, and hollers back to the back for a price check. “how much is XXXXXXX?!?!”. All the other patrons staring at Woody as hes sweating. (or the famous Swedish penis-pump scene in Austin Powers… “It’s not mine baby!”).

We grabbed a table outside, and ate a few doughnuts… they’re pretty darn good! Kat got approached by a bum for money and ran away.

We headed back toward the market, and got side-tracked at a candy store. I have to admit, I was busy watching updates on the Cards/Dodgers game 2 on my phone. About this time Wacha worked out of a bases-loaded, no-out jam (protecting a 1-0 lead), and I told Mike, that’s Game and Series… no way their coming back from that. Perhaps a bit premature, but it did work out eventually!

We went down to “food truck row” for lunch, where the Kids and Mike had burgers at “Brunch Box” (they were great), and Kim and I had Korean bbq tacos (also good). As were sitting there, we were approached by a beggar, and saw several others. Kim noted some young kids picking through the trash can and eating discarded scraps (or at least pretending). She gave them our left-over tacos (3 whole, untouched tacos), which they happily accepted. It did make us appreciate what we have for sure.

We were all a bit tired, so we headed back to the train.

Near the train stop, there was a one-man-band playing. He noticed Kat watching, and mid-song, he asked her for her name (several times). She was mortified, ran away, and hid (behind and under) the information sign at the train stop. He invited her to help him play, which she declined, but she did eventually take a buck over for his bucket. It was cute.

That night, Mike and Mika came over for dinner, (followed by more games). Kim gave up at about 12:30, Mike and I at maybe 3:30 or so. Mike stayed over again.

The next day, we all went over to Mike and Mika’s apartment to watch football. Kim made Clam Chowder for dinner, and Mike and I vegged out on the sofa watching the Chiefs beat the Raiders, and then caught some other close games. It was great. No games Sunday night, as we were all pooped.

Monday, Mike had to work, and we planned to go for a hike. The kids got into building Legos in the morning, and we decided to have “lego day”. We just hung out and built motorized legos (Kane made a house with a retractable roof, and Kat and I made a car). It was nice to just stay home and be creative with the kids.

 

Monday night, Mike and Mika came over and we had pizza. Then we played one more game of Agricola. Mike won this one handily. Kim had won the previous 2 (with me usually in 2nd).

Tuesday, we took the RV to be serviced (oil change, generator tune-up), and messed around in the jeep (visited the “end of the oregon trail museum”, did short hike, went to Target (a big deal), and went out to lunch at Red Robin (a big deal)).

Once we got the RV and hooked up to the jeep, Kim and I had a pretty interesting 5 minute conversation behind the RV about where to go next. We had decided earlier in the day to head East through Idaho and head for the Grand Canyon. Kane was really upset and wanted to go back to the Oregon coast. At the end of the discussion, we headed back to the coast. It’s such an amazing blessing to be able to have the flexibility to have those conversations about what the future holds. It’s so liberating!

Behold the power of Jade (and Cheese)!

After an epic visit to Astoria/Fort Stevens State Park, I wasn’t sure what more the coast of Oregon could offer.  Tillamook/Cape Lookout did not disappoint!

Driving into Tillamook, I had strong tugs on the old heart-strings for multiple reasons.  One, the last time Kim and I were in this area, we were with our dear friends Jeff Wilcox and Stephanie Russell.  Jeff has since died of Brain Cancer, and we still miss him dearly.  Two, the place has a similar feel to Vermont, where we’ve had several great trips over the last few years.

Tillamook County is on an alluvial plain, where no less than 5 rivers converge.  It’s an interesting flat area in the midst of an otherwise hilly (mountainous?) region.  It’s also a hotbed of dairy farming  (much like Vermont). and it’s been alluring to talented cheese makers for almost two centuries.

Cape Lookout is a beautiful State Park just South of Tillamook, on a point jutting out into the Pacific.  (interesting that Merriwether Lewis refused to call it the Pacific because he claimed it was never peaceful).  Oregon State parks are sweet!  I guess at this point I’m a sucker for Douglas Fir trees (and the mushrooms that grow under them!).

Here is a gallery of the highlights of our time in this area….. hiking cape lookout (6 miles total), exploring Oceanside beach (tide pooling, jade and agate hunting), and touring the Tillamook Cheese Factory.

Turned south instead of west, so we went to Oregon!

We were disappointed that, the day, we were supposed to go to Olympic National Park, the Shutdown occurred.  We had to go to Plan B.  Head to the state parks!  We planned on going to Cape Disappointment State Park after leaving Seattle, but ended up going south out of Olympia(after visiting the capitol-post for another day) instead of west, so we decided to head to Astoria, Oregon(which is right across the Columbia River from Washington) and stay there. What a blessing!  We camped at Fort Stevens State Park.  This fort was built during the Civil War and was active through WWII(was part of a 3 fort defense system at the mouth of the Columbia River).  The North had concerns about the British attacking from Canada or the west to support the South.  British and France were selling arms to the South for cotton and tobacco.  Fascinating history, that I was not familiar with.

We spent our first day in Astoria.  One of the big reasons for visiting Astoria was to take our kids to Fort Clatsop which is where Lewis and Clark wintered 1805-1806 after they spotted the Pacific Ocean.  Well, I did not realize that Fort Clatsop is part of the National Park Service.  So it was all gated up!

Well, we got a picture by the sign!
Well, we got a picture by the sign!
Gates are closed to Fort Clatsop :(
Gates are closed to Fort Clatsop 🙁

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We headed to Astoria after that with a quick stop to the Visitor’s Center.  Our friends, the Smiths, had told us about a fish and chips place that they loved.  We could not imagine it being better than the halibut we had eaten in Alaska, especially when we realized it was fried albacore tuna.  Well, it was unbelievable!  It was so delicious!!

Lunch!
Lunch!
Best fried albacore tuna ever!
Best fried albacore tuna ever!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another thing that Astoria is famous for is movies.  There have been so many movies made here like:  The Goonies, Kindergarten Cop, Free Willy, Short Circuit, Into the Wild, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles III, etc.  Well, last night we had family movie and watched the The Goonies.  Scott was shocked that I had never seen it!  It was so cool seeing different places from the movie around town.  We also drove by the elementary school that Kindergarten Cop was filmed at.

Goonies House
Goonies House

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We headed to Astoria Column following the Goonies house.  The Astoria Column is a tower that sits on the highest point of Astoria, where it provided a spectacular view of the city, Columbia River,  bay, forest and surrounding mountains.  Our friends, the Smiths, had told us about purchasing airplanes from the gift shop that our kids could fly from the top.  They were so excited!  They had a blast flying the airplanes off.  Kane climbed the tower up and down 4 times(he got his workout that day), rushing down to get their planes and going back up to fly them again.

Getting ready to go fly the planes off the top!
Getting ready to go fly the planes off the top!
164 stairs to the top!  Kids could not wait to fly their planes.
164 stairs to the top! Kids could not wait to fly their planes.
Astoria Column
Astoria Column
See Scott and Kane at the top?
See Scott and Kane at the top?
View from top of Astoria Column
View from top of Astoria Column

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We finished the day at the docks to check out the barking sea lions.  There were at least 30-40 on the docks.

Sea Lions on the docks in Astoria
Sea Lions on the docks in Astoria

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 2 – October 4, 2013

We biked around Fort Stevens State Park Campground and visited the Fort and Battery.  While biking Kane and Kat looked for mushrooms.  They are really into looking for Boletes and Chanterilles.  We ended up at the beach where we saw the Peter Iredale Shipwreck from 1906.

Fortsteven2001
Visiting the Fort Stevens
Fortsteven2003
The fort with the Columbia River behind it.
Fortsteven2002
Crawford Family
Fortsteven2004
Kane spotted mushrooms on our bike ride.
Fortsteven2005
We thought this was a King Bolete, but it ended up being a Slippery Jack. Glad we didn’t eat it! We would not have died, but we would have had some GI problems.
Fortsteven2006
Mushroom Discussion
Fortsteven2007
Kane searching for mushrooms in the forest.
Fortsteven2008
This is what is left of the Peter Iredale Shipwreck from 1906.
Fortsteven2009
Beach at Fort Stevens State Park
Fortsteven2010
Look who spelled her name…
Fortsteven2011
Can’t beat a campfire and smores to end the day!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 3 October 5, 2013

We wanted to go clamming in Alaska, but missed the minus tide(which is a negative tide or unusually low tide).  Good news for us-it was a minus tide this weekend!  Kids and Scott headed to town to get clam gun and license in the morning.  Then kids and I went to the Ranger led program on Mushrooms.  It is so cool seeing their interest and knowledge grow about mushrooms.

Mushroom Program at campground.
Mushroom Program at campground.

 

 

 

 

 

 

After, the mushroom program we went fishing at Lake Coffenbury in our campground.  Kids caught multiple teeny yellow perch and Kat ended up falling off the dock into the lake, but was okay.

Kat caught the first 8!
Kat caught the first 8!
Kane caught the next 5 after Kat fell off the dock.
Kane caught the next 5 after Kat fell off the dock.
My wet little Kat.
My wet little Kat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After dinner, we headed to the beach for our first try at clamming. We went about 1 hour before minus tide.  We headed to the beach and started looking for “clam show(a dimple, a doughnut or keyhole in the sand).”  When we found our first clam show, we centered our clam gun over the dimple and twisted it down about 6-10inches.  Then we placed our finger over the air vent and sucked up the sand and clam(sometimes we had to suck up 2 or 3 times to catch the clam, they dig fast).  Kids were so excited each time we found one!  We ended up collecting 6 razor clams.

Beautiful sunset
Beautiful sunset
Our first razor clam
Our first razor clam
Another clam
Another clam
Kane trying out the clam gun.
Kane trying out the clam gun.
Looking for "clam shows."
Looking for “clam shows.”
Our clams
Our clams
A naked clam
A naked clam

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 4 – October 6, 2013

This post is getting long, so I will just bullet point today:

Scott watched the Chiefs game

Kim went to the Laundry Mat

Scott and Kids found King Boletes in the woods

Clamming for the Second Day(not as good as last night(super windy), but we still found 4, thanks to Kane(he found the “clam show” and dug 3 of the 4 himself)

It is so windy!
It is so windy!
Kane is ready to find some clams!
Kane is ready to find some clams!
Kane searching through the sand for a clam.
Kane searching through the sand for a clam.
King Boletes
King Boletus

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scott cleaning the clams.
Scott cleaning the clams.
Kat getting ready to drop the clam into the boiling water.
Kat getting ready to drop the clam into the boiling water.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 5 – October 7, 2013

Today was dedicated to Lewis and Clark.  The kids have been learning about Lewis and Clark since we started on our journey.  I was so excited about them being able to see the places that Lewis and Clark have been and to think about what it took to survive their journey.  So we went to some of the places around the Columbia River and the Oregon Coast that they were.  We started at Dismal Nitch, where Lewis and Clark were pinned against the rocky shore and they took shelter from the strong waves, winds and torrential rain of a Pacific Northwest Storm.  It was the first time Clark described the situation as “dangerous” on their long journey.

Much better weather today than November 8-15, 1805. :)
Much better weather today than November 8-15, 1805. 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Station Camp-Lewis and Clark got their first full view of the Pacific Ocean at this point.  (Sorry no picture).

Cape Disappointment- Lewis and Clark finally reached the Pacific Ocean here.  They explored the step bluffs and forested hollows of the cape.

Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center
Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center
View of Interpretive Center from Cape Disappointment Lighthouse
View of Interpretive Center from Cape Disappointment Lighthouse
Cape Disappointment Lighthouse built in 1856.  The mouth of the Columbia River is called the Graveyard of Ships due to the number of shipwrecks.
Cape Disappointment Lighthouse built in 1856. The mouth of the Columbia River is called the Graveyard of Ships due to the number of shipwrecks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Seaside, Oregon -Salt Works

We visited the Salt Works where replicas of the structures (known as “cairns”) where Lewis and Clark’s men boiled sea water to evaporate the water and gather salt to season their food and preserve their meat. These cairns were ovens built of rock and shaped like an upside down “u”. Wood was piled beneath the rocks and a fire built and kept constantly going. Between December of 1805 and February of 1806, three men worked with five brass kettles boiling 24 hours a day, going through over 1400 gallons of seawater to make enough salt for the expedition to use on their return home. They were able to make three quarts to one gallon each day and ended up with over 20 gallons of salt.  It is amazing to think of them hiking 15 miles from their camp to make salt.  Then having to haul it back.

Salt Works Replica
Salt Works Replica
Picture of what Saltworks would have looked like.
Picture of what Saltworks would have looked like.
Walking down the beach in Seaside
Walking down the beach in Seaside
Lewis and Clark statue commemorating their 18 month, 4000 mile journey to the Pacific Ocean.  This was designed as the official "End of the Trail" for Lewis and Clark.
Lewis and Clark statue commemorating their 18 month, 4000 mile journey to the Pacific Ocean. This was designed as the official “End of the Trail” for Lewis and Clark.
Seaside is known for their saltwater taffy.
Seaside is known for their saltwater taffy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Who can resist?
Who can resist?
After a full day of history, we had to stop at the arcade for a bit!
After a full day of history, we had to stop at the arcade for a bit!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last stop of the day was Cannon Beach where Lewis and 12 of his expedition traveled to see a beached whale.  Tillamook Native Americans were already there boiling the blubber, so Clark bartered with them for 300 lbs. of blubber and some whale oil.

We loved visiting Haystack Rock at Cannon Beach.  It was low tide when we got there, so we were able to go tidepooling. A tide pool is a puddle of water left when the ocean recedes during low tide.  It is a great time to spot marine animals and plants.  We spotted barnacles, anemones, seastars and hermit crabs.  Our kids really enjoy spotting the marine animals.

Piggyback ride
Piggyback ride
Headed to Haystack Rock
Headed to Haystack Rock
Love this picture of Kat.
Love this picture of Kat.
They love tide pooling!
They love tide pooling!
Kane touching the seastars.
Kane touching the seastars.
Looking for sea creatures in the tide pools.
Looking for sea creatures in the tide pools.
We spotted so many beautiful anemones!
We spotted so many beautiful anemones!
Look at the big Seastars!
Look at the big Seastars!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunless in Seattle

Well, Seattle, I have some good news and some bad news.  First the bad.  I did everything I could to grease the skids with Kim, telling her how great you were and what a great place you would be to live.  When your big moment came, and I introduced you to Kim, you crapped the bed.  I understand that you had record rainfall (by 20%!) for September, and it was unseasonably wet, but you had 4 days to get your act together, and you didn’t do it.  Too bad for you that she met you on the tail end of about 20 days of rain starting in Seward.

Now the good news.  We still had a great time visiting!  So at least you made the “great place to visit, but I don’t want to live there” category.  That’s something to hang your hat on.

I’m ashamed to say, that I’m starting to take some of this stuff for granted.  I’m a week overdue to write this post, and as I chose the pics and wrote the captions, I perhaps for the first time truly appreciated the breadth of the Seattle experience.  It was in and of itself, wonderful, and unfortunately for it, sandwiched between Vancouver and the Northern Oregon coast (that’s stiff competition!).

On to the details… the Seattle visit was a great blend of touristy stuff, and “real living”.  As per usual, I think we agree that the “real living” experiences are a tad more precious and almost always sneak up on us because their not planned (could they be?).

We camped in Bellevue, which is a sizable town in it’s own right, east of Seattle on the opposite side of the massive and beautiful lake Washington.  The campground was sufficient, basically a parking lot with hookups, but the location was good, they had (modest) wifi, and much to the kids joy, an indoor pool!  We rolled in mid afternoon, and decided to walk to Pizza Hut for dinner.  Actually, we debated between Pizza Hut and Outback Steakhouse as we have (had) gift cards for both.  We’re a pizza family, and you know what to expect from Pizza  Hut.  Lots of talk about Chickens and Octopus’s over dinner.  The kids are obsessed, and I have to admit I’m intrigued by the idea of fresh eggs.  How often does a female Octopus lay? 🙂

Our first full day was Saturday, and we decided to do the Space Needle and the Dale Chihuly museum (gallery) combo ticket.  Our friends the Marings had visited recently and strongly recommended the Chihuly place.  I’m glad they did, because I would have leaned to skipping as we visited the Botanical gardens several times when Chihuly was there, and I felt like I’d seen it all.  I had not.  It was a bonus that Chihuly was right next door to the Space Needle.

I get the feeling that the Space Needle is a different gig when the weather is nice and visibility is good. As it was, I’d put it in the STL Arch and Statue of Liberty bucket… enjoy it for the history/context and enjoy it from outside, but don’t bother going in/up.  The view from the Needle far exceeds the Arch etc, but it was so wet, foggy, and WINDY outside there was no desire to linger.  We got up, took our requisite pictures, ate our packed PB&J lunch, thoroughly inspected the junk food offered in the snack bar, read some exhibits, got frustrated by the touch screen kiosk, and left.  If you have the budget, I suspect the rotating restaurant would be great… the menu looked good, but pricy.  The gift shop is magnificent, and of course, the elevator down drops you there.  I think we survived relatively unscathed as the kids have learned a keen ability to judge “good/bad deals” on this trip.  Actually we’ve all sharpened those skills!

Mixed levels of excitement as we wait for the Space Needle elevator ride.  It was raining in the elevator!
Mixed levels of excitement as we wait for the Space Needle elevator ride. It was raining in the elevator!
They sprung for the Swarovski spotting scopes, but should have gotten the anti-fog model.  I wish I had a nickel for every selfie we've seen taken on this trip.  We usually offer to take a proper pic for them though. By "we" I mostly mean Kim.  When Kim's not around, I do it by proxy.
They sprung for the Swarovski spotting scopes, but should have gotten the anti-fog model. I wish I had a nickel for every selfie we’ve seen taken on this trip. We usually offer to take a proper pic for them though. By “we” I mostly mean Kim. When Kim’s not around, I do it by proxy.
Cool to see the city from the Needle, even if visibility was limited.  I'm pretty sure the tan concrete hotel on the left is the "Red Lion", where I shared the presidential suite with a dude in July 2011. (story for another day)
Cool to see the city from the Needle, even if visibility was limited. I’m pretty sure the tan concrete hotel on the left is the “Red Lion”, where I shared the presidential suite with a dude in July 2011. (story for another day)
Most of us are happy to be at the Space Needle.  I think Kane just got shutdown on his request for a bag of Lays from the snack bar.
Most of us are happy to be at the Space Needle. I think Kane just got shutdown on his request for a bag of Lays from the snack bar.
Kat, checking out Seattle via a Space Needle scope.  Visibility was poor!
Kat, checking out Seattle via a Space Needle scope. Visibility was poor!
The combo tix for the Needle and the Chihuly gallery are too good to pass up, and they're next door to one another.  This was taken from the Chihuly garden.
The combo tix for the Needle and the Chihuly gallery are too good to pass up, and they’re next door to one another. This was taken from the Chihuly garden.
Touch screen kiosks... great idea... poor execution.  They mostly "sporadically" worked.
Touch screen kiosks… great idea… poor execution. They mostly “sporadically” worked.

From the Needle, we sauntered over to the Dale Chihuly museum.  This place is amazing.  We jumped into the theatre which was showing short documentaries chronociling some of his “epic” installments (Venice, Isreal, Rio, etc).  We stayed put and watched them all (the kids were into the first 2/3, and Kim and I were enthralled throughout and didn’t want them to end).  Then we proceeded though the exhibits inside, bounced out for the gardens, and ended in the “glass house”.  It’s all great!  A wedding reception in the glass house would be amazing.  You gotta checkout these pics.

It's love/torment, mostly love.
It’s love/torment, mostly love.
The contrasting textures and colors in the gardens are breathtaking.
The contrasting textures and colors in the gardens are breathtaking.
Welcome to the garden
Welcome to the garden
A little rain can't keep us down... we're Chiefs fans and we're Crawfords.
A little rain can’t keep us down… we’re Chiefs fans and we’re Crawfords.
Thought I'd include one of the the entire, incredible "red trumpet glass" piece.
Thought I’d include one of the the entire, incredible “red trumpet glass” piece.
How in the world do they make this stuff?
How in the world do they make this stuff?
The scale of some of these pieces is incredible.  If you get a chance to see a Chihuly exhibit, see it!
The scale of some of these pieces is incredible. If you get a chance to see a Chihuly exhibit, see it!
Sorry for all these pics, but these are just the best of the best!  Chandelier used in "Chihuly over Venice".
Sorry for all these pics, but these are just the best of the best! Chandelier used in “Chihuly over Venice”.
My feedback for them is they need to have artisans on-sight demonstrating how they make this stuff.
My feedback for them is they need to have artisans on-sight demonstrating how they make this stuff.
This is a long, narrow room, and by no means does this pic do it justice, but when you turn the corner, this is what smacks you in the eyes.  It's utterly incredible.  A+mazing.
This is a long, narrow room, and by no means does this pic do it justice, but when you turn the corner, this is what smacks you in the eyes. It’s utterly incredible. A+mazing.
The Bellagio called and they want their ceiling back.
The Bellagio called and they want their ceiling back.
I know there are too many pics of the art, but It struck me that I like this picture "much" better than I like this piece in real life.
I know there are too many pics of the art, but It struck me that I like this picture “much” better than I like this piece in real life.
The talk all week had been, Kat getting a Chicken and Kane getting an Octopus when we get home.  And of Kane potentially going into marine biology.  Fitting that Chihuly had an entire room dedicated to marine life.  (no chickens, however there were several egg shaped elements)
The talk all week had been, Kat getting a Chicken and Kane getting an Octopus when we get home. And of Kane potentially going into marine biology. Fitting that Chihuly had an entire room dedicated to marine life. (no chickens, however there were several egg shaped elements)
Love me some bowls.  Aspiring artists, take note, a gallery is 75% lighting and 20% sight lines/composition.
Love me some bowls. Aspiring artists, take note, a gallery is 75% lighting
Pictures of this can't do it justice.  The colors are so vibrant and vivid.
Pictures of this can’t do it justice. The colors are so vibrant and vivid.

 

What you might see if you look up from within the Chihuly glass house (available for rent).  Sweet venue.
What you might see if you look up from within the Chihuly glass house (available for rent). Sweet venue.
Some of the places in here are stunning, and I love how they've planned sight lines.  This is inside the "glass house", looking out over the gardens.
Some of the places in here are stunning, and I love how they’ve planned sight lines. This is inside the “glass house”, looking out over the gardens.

Well after Chihuly, we had no plans, and though it was raining we felt compelled to wander around a bit searching out our next victim (or was it the prey searching for the next predator?).  The Sience center looked pretty cool, but the budget was shot for the day, so we just saw what we could through the windows.  I agreed to walk more in the rain for a promise of food (I was silently hoping for a samosa).  We headed south toward the sculpture park.  The rain let up to a drizzle, and it was a nice walk “downhill” through a nice downtown hood, though the only potential snack was a Subway.  The sculpture park was a nice place to hang out, right on the edge of the Puget Sound.  As far as the art goes, it’s probably a notch below Lauramier?  Opinions vary I’m sure.  The only “interactive” installation that we found was basically the roof of a house built directly on the hillside.  After reading the sign of warnings, it dawned on me that we “might” be allowed to walk on the roof.  As I’m thinking out-loud about the goodness of the idea, Kane scampered to the top.  Kat quickly followed suit (albeit slower), so I went with her.  I guess it was OK, nobody chewed us out.  I did have a hard time getting Kane off that roof for some reason, but it had started to rain hard now and we were a mile from the jeep.  We made a bee-line for our parking spot, and didn’t get that snack after all.  Solid day none-the-less, and once again Kim was vindicated in her insistence that we all buy “decent rain gear” for the trip.

IMG_0388
Walking from Seattle Center (Space Needle/Chihuly) to Sculpture Garden.
Seattle sculpture garden.  Free and we had the place virtually to ourselves.
Seattle sculpture garden. Free and we had the place virtually to ourselves.
It took some nerve to finally climb up here, we were not 100% certain we could, but nobody stopped us.  Not sure what kind of art this is... a roof built in the hillside.  Did I mention entry was free?
It took some nerve to finally climb up here, we were not 100% certain we could, but nobody stopped us. Not sure what kind of art this is… a roof built in the hillside. Did I mention entry was free?
Included this so you could appreciate how close this is to the sound.
Included this so you could appreciate how close this is to the sound.

The following day was Sunday, and I had one thing on my mind… my Chiefs were still undefeated and playing at 12 central (10 am Seattle time).  Kim again took pity on me, and we scheduled the day around this 25+ year affliction of mine.

We got up reasonably early, and headed downtown for Pike Place Market.  I’d been here a few times to buy souvenirs for the kids and to watch the “fish throwing” at the seafood shop.  Neither Kim nor the kids had ever been, and Kim got word from her friend Allison that there were fresh doughnuts to be had as well.  This was to be our breakfast!

We got close, but parking was a challenge.  On Sunday it’s free to park on the street, and we knew this, but it was also busy.  We were giving up on free parking, and pulling into a paid lot, and we were approached by the self-proclaimed “parking guru”, who told us (for a suggested tip) that we could park in any zone but handicapped on Sunday (including police etc which we’d been avoiding).  So we headed back out to find any opening possible on the street.  We did find one, and unfortunately for the guru, we didn’t have to walk past him to get to the market.

We wandered around the market, amazed both by the offerings and the offerers.  10 bucks can go a long way at the market, surprisingly!  Just as we were ready to fire up the MiFi and look up the doughnut shop, we found it. It was busy, and we had fun watching their doughnut making robot work while we waited.  Everybody placed their order with Mom, and she brokered the deal.  After that, we wandered around a bit more, watching the fish market workers, looking for souvenirs, and being impressed the the “worlds largest shoe museum”  (worlds smallest, coin operated museum?).  But, it was close to gametime, so we headed for the jeep.

These babies are FRESH (at least the plain ones), we watched them roll out of the "doughnut cooker 2000" robot and onto this platter.
These babies are FRESH (at least the plain ones), we watched them roll out of the “doughnut cooker 2000” robot and onto this platter.
One of the toughest decisions of our lives this year... what kind of mini-doughnuts to buy.  Settled on half dozen maple frosted, half dozen sprinkles, and a dozen powdered.  We passed on the maple-bacon, as I was told never to eat seafood in the midwest nor pork in the Pacific Northwest. :-)
One of the toughest decisions of our lives this year… what kind of mini-doughnuts to buy. Settled on half dozen maple frosted, half dozen sprinkles, and a dozen powdered. We passed on the maple-bacon, as I was told never to eat seafood in the midwest nor pork in the Pacific Northwest. 🙂
I always feel like a leach, hovering around this place waiting for somebody else to buy something, so I can watch them holler and throw the fish.
I always feel like a leach, hovering around this place waiting for somebody else to buy something, so I can watch them holler and throw the fish.

Kim dropped me at a previously researched location (“Fuel Sports Bar on Washington st”).  Kane was given the option to go with me, but bars scare him at this point (since he got bounced from the place in Anchorage), which is probably OK for now.  So Kim, Kat, and Kane headed to the childrens theatre to catch Pippi Longstocking, and I settled in for some great football, and the worst biscuits and gravy I’ve ever had.  The Chiefs handled the Giants, and Seattle made a 14 point 4th quarter comeback, which created an excellent atmosphere at Fuel.

Kim took kids to see Pippi while I was at a "fuel" sports bar watching the Chiefs game.
Kim took kids to see Pippi while I was at a “fuel” sports bar watching the Chiefs game.

After the game and Pippi, the family picked me up, and we went back home for lunch and MATH!  We really just hung out at home and didn’t do much the rest of the day.  I think Kim did laundry maybe, while I did Math with the kids.

The next day (Monday), I had made an appointment to get the Jeep fixed.  Our clutch had been squealing since the day before we drove it to McCarthy and back.  It had done nothing but get worse since then, but I wanted to get back to the lower 48 for such a major repair.  Sam at “The Shop” in Ballard had told me that they were about 1 mile north of the “locks”, which we wanted to see anyway.  We decided to drop the car off with Sam, and spend the day in Ballard, on foot.  It turned out to be our best day in Seattle, oddly enough.

Here’s the day, and I’ll let the pictures do the talking:

1) Stopped at the coffee shop for Kim to get a Latte. I got the best brewed coffee I’d had for awhile (Ethiopian beans?), and the kids split a hot chocolate.
2) Stopped at a small, independent bookstore for an hour. We all love books, this was a no-brainer. Kids both got new books (Ive & Bean for Kat, and Ender’s Game for Kane). I spent my time reading a book on Zen written by Jeff Bridges, which I want to read, but won’t pay 27 bucks for hardcopy Bridges. Kim talked with the owner, and looked at baby books.
3) Stopped at the petstore to coo over the “tuxedo” kittens in the front window.
4) Made it to the “Locks-n-dam”. Hit the visitor center/gift shop first for the lay-of-the-land. Put simply, the Locks rock. First of all, what a gutsy idea to connect the ocean to lakes miles away, and 12 feet above sea level. Second, I can only imagine the feeling of accomplishment of the engineers, when this thing went from paper to concrete/steel, and they saw it work for the first time. It’s incredible. I may be the last person on earth to see a lock in action and to figure out how it works, but WOW!
5) From the locks, we walked across the dam to the “fish ladder”. This is a stair-stepped series of mini-locks, that allow fish to swim from the ocean up the ladder to the fresh water to spawn. They had the forthought to install windows and a viewing area underground where you can watch the fish move up 3/4 of these locks. The sliver salmon happened to be moving up to spawn, and so we got to watch a dozen or so work their way through the ladder. Really cool to see, especially since Kane caught silvers in Alaska, and we’ve been eating them.
6) Lunch! Thai food across from the coffee shop. It was really good. The “free lunch soup” was the tastiest I’ve ever had. The pad kee mao was great, as well as the cashew nut chicken (all with jasmine rice). So happy to have decent Thai food. We miss Addies so much!
7) Dessert! We had passed a gourmet popcorn place on the way to lunch, so we went back. We sampled almost everything (we are expert samplers at this point), and bought a bag of “Hawaiian Salted Carmel” (sea salt and carmel corn). So good, and they keep it under a heat lamp, so it was warm!
8) Still had time to kill, so we jumped across the street the movies. Cloudy with Meatballs 2 was the only option. It was marginal, but still fun to see a movie.
9) Quick call to Sam to see if the jeep is ready… not yet, so we look up the public library. It’s just around the corner! Really nice library. Funny thing happened to me. The kids and Kim headed over to the kids section, and I went looking for a book. I found a cool encyclopedia of world religions, and took it over to read near the family. After 15 minutes or so, a librarian came over and said “excuse me sir, do you have a child with you?”. I said “not yet, but prospects are good”. I wish I had said that, in reality I just pointed at Kat. It’s difficult to describe the depth of humility experienced the moment you realize somebody suspects you are a predator (in an actionable way no less), but I also gained some respect for their policy and for this lady specifically. It’s nice to know that some effort is made to keep kids safe at the library! (even from me)
10) Sam called and the jeep is ready. So we walked back north to “The Shop” and get our, newly silent, jeep. He showed me the bearing (throwout bearing) from the clutch, and I should have taken a picture. The bearings were gone, it was just two mangled rights of metal remaining. I guess bearings are optional if you don’t mind some obnoxious noise!
11) We drove home in rush hour traffic, got to see Seattle from the north (it was clear), and all felt great bout a day of “doing normal stuff” in a new/exciting place. For once, it felt less like we were traveling, and more like we were living somewhere. Ballard is excellent, and we never would have known that if not for the jeep repair.

The start of a great day in Ballard, waiting for the jeep to be "de-squeeked".  Coffee & Hot Chocolate!
The start of a great day in Ballard, waiting for the jeep to be “de-squeeked”. Coffee & Hot Chocolate!
Ballard is sweet, somewhat of a hybrid between Webster Groves and U-City.  I wonder if the public school is any good?
Ballard is sweet, somewhat of a hybrid between Webster Groves and U-City. I wonder if the public school is any good?
Across the street from Starbucks, what would you choose? Still stick'n it to the man (when it's convenient).
Across the street from Starbucks, what would you choose? Still stick’n it to the man (when it’s convenient).
Stop #2 in Ballard was the bookstore.  I guess we didn't really take many pics here, we all scattered and dug into some books.  I found a cool book that I deemed too expensive called "The Dude and the Zen master"... by Jeff Bridges and his Zen mentor.
Stop #2 in Ballard was the bookstore. I guess we didn’t really take many pics here, we all scattered and dug into some books. I found a cool book that I deemed too expensive called “The Dude and the Zen master”… by Jeff Bridges and his Zen mentor.
The lock and Dam.  A must see.
The lock and Dam. A must see.
The large lock opening up for a huge tugboat to head up to lakes (Union and Washington).  Lake side is 12 feet above the sound (ocean) side.
The large lock opening up for a huge tugboat to head up to lakes (Union and Washington). Lake side is 12 feet above the sound (ocean) side.
Small (cabin cruiser) pulling in to be lowered and head out to sea.  The little lock leaked more than the big one.
Small (cabin cruiser) pulling in to be lowered and head out to sea. The little lock leaked more than the big one.
Lock drained, he's ready to go, 12 feet lower.  Amazing.
Lock drained, he’s ready to go, 12 feet lower. Amazing.
Large lock is to the right, small to the left.  This is the puget sound side where the boats head out to sea.  We all loved it, though by this point, Kane was anxious to get to the fish ladder.
Large lock is to the right, small to the left. This is the puget sound side where the boats head out to sea. We all loved it, though by this point, Kane was anxious to get to the fish ladder.
Fish ladder at the lock-n-dam from the top.  It has sequential chambers with successively higher elevation.  Some fish jump from one to the next, some swim super hard though tunnels between them.  (there appears to be a powerful flow of water through the tunnel)
Fish ladder at the lock-n-dam from the top. It has sequential chambers with successively higher elevation. Some fish jump from one to the next, some swim super hard though tunnels between them. (there appears to be a powerful flow of water through the tunnel)
Viewing area of the fish ladder (the method by which the fish spawn around the dam).  There's one now!
Viewing area of the fish ladder (the method by which the fish spawn around the dam). There’s one now!
The silvers were nearing the end of their run.  Some (like this one) looked good, others a bit mangy.  Did you know they die after they pair up and spawn?
The silvers were nearing the end of their run. Some (like this one) looked good, others a bit mangy. Did you know they die after they pair up and spawn?
Dam happy.
Dam happy.
Lunch!  Thai!  We opted for 4 stars and .7 miles away since were were still on foot.  This place did not disappoint.
Lunch! Thai! We opted for 4 stars and .7 miles away since were were still on foot. This place did not disappoint.
A movie?  Could this day get any better!?  Yes, it could have been a reasonable movie!  At least we brought our own snack... hawaiian salted carmel popcorn from across the street (it was killer).
A movie? Could this day get any better!? Yes, it could have been a reasonable movie! At least we brought our own snack… hawaiian salted carmel popcorn from across the street (it was killer).
Killing more time at the Ballard public library.  Nice place.  I was "carded" for being weird looking and in the children's area.
Killing more time at the Ballard public library. Nice place. I was “carded” for being weird looking and in the children’s area.
Back on the road (and squeak free!), we got to see the city from the north.
Back on the road (and squeak free!), we got to see the city from the north.

One last note on Seattle, one night before Kat went to bed, she made this sign. She used masking tape and taped this to a plate. She put the plate on the stove. Kim was in the back and didn’t see this until the kids were in bed. We had a great giggle, and put a couple of bucks on the plate. Kat was so incredibly happy, and immediately made her self a “chicken fund” box to save her money for her pet chicken when we get back to St. Louis. She’s been researching this, and Kane has likewise researched keeping Octopuses as well. We’ll see… Clearly, Kat was impressed by one of the many homeless in downtown Seattle, and leveraged some of their strategy for this sign.

One of those mixed emotion type moments.  Hey, learning to passively panhandle is still learning, right?
One of those mixed emotion type moments. Hey, learning to passively panhandle is still learning, right?

One last, last note. One evening, I was able to sneak out for a drink. A friend of mine from work, who had helped edit one of our 48 hour film projects, now lives in Seattle. He lives in the “Capitol Hill” neighborhood, which I was liken most closely to U-City, really cool eclectic area. Anyway, I met Alec at a brewpub down there, and we were able to catch up. I’m glad Alec is doing well, and it was fun to have a bit of normal social interaction in amongst 24×7 family time.

We left Seattle, feeling great about getting our jeep fixed. Originally, we planned to spend some time in Victoria and Olympic Nation Park. We elected not to ferry the RV over to Victoria due to cost, and the government decided to shutdown the NPs due to ACA. We’re doing the next best thing… State Parks! On our way to Astoria, we stopped in Olympia to visit the Washington State Capitol, which was interesting and fun. I have pics for that, but it will need to be another post sometime!

Shutdown!

Shutdown!  This cannot be!!  We were supposed to be heading to Olympic National Park tomorrow.        All National Parks will be closed due to the Shutdown.  Our journey in the US is heavily based on National Parks.  I will be so very sad if the parks stay closed!  I feel terrible that I am even complaining about this, but the Shutdown will significantly affect our journey!  Well, that’s life.  It will all work out!  We will just have to figure out a Plan B! 🙂   We will post more tomorrow about Seattle. We are now going to stay an extra day in Seattle to figure out what we are going to do if the National Parks stay closed and we are going to take the Boeing Factory tour where they build the 747, 767, 777, and 787.  Hope you are having a great week!!

What a City!

Vancouver!  We had the best time here even with getting lost at first. We started with missing our turn to our RV park which made us go across the Lionsgate Bridge into the city of Vancouver.  We took the first turn right and ended up in Stanley Park which is a 1000 acre city park that is almost entirely surrounded by the Pacific Ocean(more details later in the post).  As our big RV rubbed the branches of the big western red cedars, I dared not look at Scott. 🙂  Then we came out into downtown where the streets are narrow and I did not have a good map of Vancouver. God was looking out for us, because we ended up making a big circle and found our RV park pretty easily once we got back across the bridge.  Did I mention that right before this we had been in bad traffic and it took us a hour to go a few miles?

I had read somewhere that after China and Hong Kong, Vancouver is third for the best Chinese food in the world.  After doing some research we headed to Chongqing on Robson Street(this street is in the heart of downtown Vancouver and is known for its shopping and dining) for dinner.  We shared pot stickers, mongolian beef and sweet and sour chicken(this was the best we have ever had).  Afterwards, our kids wanted to go to the japanese store next door.  Kat bought some Pockys(biscuit sticks coated with strawberry) and we bought some mango gummies and japanese “starburst” that were lemon with a crunch in the middle. Yummy!

Outside the Japanese Store
Outside the Japanese Store
First night in Vancouver
First night in Vancouver
Delicious Chinese Food!
Delicious Chinese Food!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Aquarium22
Kat looking at the moon jellyfish. We saw these in Alaska.
Aquarium21
Kids watching the belugas
Aquarium4
Getting ready for the 4D show
Aquarium1
Front of Aquarium
Aquarium2
Pacific White Sided Dolphins

 

 

 

 

Monday, we headed to the Aquarium in Stanley Park(a 1,000 acre peninsula of British Columbian rainforest with hiking and biking trails, beaches, and incredible ocean views on every side).  Our friends, the Fites, gave us a book a few years ago called “500 Places to take Your Kids before they Grow Up.”  Vancouver Aquarium is one of the 500!   Our favorites were the Pacific white sided dolphins, the belugas and the jellyfish(they had over 15 types of jellyfish from around the world).  We had seen the moon and lion’s mane jellyfish in Alaska, so our kids were excited to see them close up at the aquarium.  We also enjoyed the Sponge Bob Great Jelly Rescue 4D Movie(it is like a 3D movie with motion, water squirting at us and smells released to correlate with the movie).  I can’t imagine sitting through a regular movie in 4D.  I would totally be over stimulated!

Tuesday, we headed to Gastown.  Gastown was Vancouver’s first downtown core and was named after “Gassy” Jack Deighton who opened the first saloon in 1867.  We enjoyed seeing Gastown’s most famous landmark which is the Steam Powered Clock(small replica of London’s Big Ben).  It was cool to see it chime and blow steam on the hour(I unfortunately ran to the restroom and missed most of it 🙂 ).  We headed to Chinatown after seeing the clock blow.  Chinatown seemed a little sketchy and the lady at the RV park said don’t go past a certain street in Chinatown, because it is the East St. Louis of Vancouver.  We walked a couple blocks then headed to the library. Yes, the library again!  It is beautiful!  It is shaped like the Colosseum in Rome(it was supposed to be representative of the Library of Alexandria). 4 architect designs were submitted to the public in 1990 and this is the one that won.  We spent a hour in the children’s area reading. I love that our kids love books so much!  It probably helps that their Nana Kane is a reading teacher and has been giving them books before they were born and we have been reading to them since they were in my belly.

Gastown Steam Clock
Gastown Steam Clock
Reading in the Library
Reading in the Library
Vancouver Library
Vancouver Library

 

Guess what we did for dinner?  We headed back to Chongqing for more Chinese.  I just loved our walk down Robson seeing all different types of people, stores, restaurants. It is hard explaining to Kane and Kat why someone is homeless and especially why the guy sleeping on the ground has a dog.  “How can they have a dog?”  they asked.  Such a beautiful, clean city!  It is amazing to see all the high rise apartments that actually look nice.

Yesterday, we went to the Capilano Suspension Bridge Park.  It was originally built in 1889, so the man who owned the land could get to the other side of the river without having to hike 20 kilometers to get to the other side.  Fortunately, they have updated it since the days of hemp rope, but it still swayed as we walked across.  It is 450 feet across and 230 feet above the Capilano River.  On the other side(which is a coastal rainforest), we got to venture from magnificent Douglas Fir to another on a series of elevated suspension bridges called the Treetops Adventure.  The finally thrill was the Cliffwalk.  The Cliffwalk was a cantilevered, suspended walkways jutting out from the granite cliff above the Capilano River.  Kat was so excited that I totally had to pretend that I was too!  I almost freaked out when I had to walk on the glass area where you could see down. Glad she didn’t notice! 🙂

Love them!
Love them!
Capilano Suspension Bridge
Capilano Suspension Bridge
Silly Kane
Silly Kane
Treetop Adventure
Treetop Adventure
Kane looking for fish on the Suspension Bridge
Kane looking for fish on the Suspension Bridge

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Today, we headed back to Stanley Park for biking.  Our friends, the Marings, were in Vancouver a few weeks ago and highly recommended going biking around Stanley Park. We had the best time biking today.  The weather was so perfect: blue sky, sun, in the 50s.  There is bike and walking path around Stanley Park.  It runs along the Seawall. 90% of our bike ride was next to the ocean.  We biked by the harbor, we saw 4 sea planes land, we had a picnic that overlooked Coal Harbour and Lionsgate Bridge, we watched men fishing, we sat and played on the beach, we played at the playground, we gave thanks to God for this incredible day!   Truly, we feel so blessed!!

Biking around Stanley Park
Biking around Stanley Park
Looking out toward North Vancouver across Coal Harbour
Looking out toward North Vancouver across Coal Harbour
Picnic time
Picnic time
Hike in the Rainforest
Hike in the Rainforest
Huge Maple Leaf
Huge Maple Leaf
Kane was so content to watch this man fishing
Kane was so content to watch this man fishing
Lionsgate Bridge
Lionsgate Bridge
At the Beach
At the Beach
Kat collecting crab shells and putting them into a pile
Kat collecting crab shells and putting them into a pile
Cool Tree
Cool Tree
Kane in the tree
Kane in the tree

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We planned on taking the Aquabus ferry to Granville Island to the Market, but ended up driving over since it was getting late in the day.  The Public Market was filled with fruit and vegetable, seafood, sausage, and meat vendors.  As well as a variety of hand crafts and artisan type food vendors.  I just loved the energy in the air!  We bought a few things then walked around the island a little bit.  Lots of cute stores, selling lots of cute things(its weird not being able to buy something, we are on a tight budget).  We walked down to the marina and checked out the yachts.  Kat wants to live on one now. 🙂  Should we trade in our RV for a sailboat?

Ice cream at the Market at Granville Island
Ice cream at the Market at Granville Island
View of Vancouver from Granville Island
View of Vancouver from Granville Island
Looking at the yachts
Looking at the yachts

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The last thing we did today was laundry and then I took our kids to the heated pool at our campground.  They were so excited!  Such a fun filled day with our kids!!  Precious time.  I just want to bottle days like this up and save them.

Pool time
Pool time

On the road again!

Well, we “crushed it” from McCarthy AK to Vancouver B.C. One one day of rest/fun, otherwise, 8/9 days driving, covering 2,250 miles. I’ll try to cover a few highlights, but truly we were driving all day. Almost all of this was done in the rain, and two of the days were the worst roads of the trip.

The first day from McCarthy to TOK, I covered in the McCarthy post. It was a monster mostly because we drove in the jeep from McCarthy to Chitina, then had to pack up and drive the RV up to TOK. The Richardson Highway that we were on was mostly good, and very picturesque, but there was a 50 mile stretch that was battered with frost heave (think about sections of road sunken by as much as 10 inches, wide enough to drop one tire down).

Here are a few pics of the long drive day to TOK.

cassiar01
Kids having “School Time” on the drive. We try to do school on drive days, and math on non-drive days.
Goodbye Amazing place.
Goodbye Amazing place.
6 of the top 10 peaks in NA lie in this park.
6 of the top 10 peaks in NA lie in this park.
Cool shots of Wrangell Elias on our way north to Tok.
Cool shots of Wrangell Elias on our way north to Tok.

We spent the night in TOK after 3 stops (first park was too small for our rig, but they didn’t tell us until after we paid and had driven into the camping area), second park was too expensive and wouldn’t give us internet, third park worked great, but we were bascially by ourselves which was eerie.

The drive day from TOK to Kluane Lake (Destruction bay area), was the most intense of the trip. The Alaskan (or Alcan) highway just east of the Alaska border is by far, the worst stretch of that road. It’s littered with gravel patches, front heave, pot-holes etc. We had to deal with lots of construction, which usually means waiting as long as 15 minutes at a stoplight for a “pilot car” to come and lead you through a single lane of gravel or dirt road section. It rained most of the way. The moisture was actually really helpful though, as the pooling water helped me identify low spots in the road in advance. We drove until dusk because we wanted to stay at the “Cottonwood RV park” at Kluane Lake where Kane had the Grizzley near-miss. Unfortunately, it was closed for the season, so we had to keep going…

We drove around Kluane Lake in the dark. It turns out the RV is fine to drive in the dark, as long as there is no oncoming traffic. It was actually a pretty neat drive, but Kim was worried that we’d hit wildlife after one Grizzly Bear ran across the road right in front of us (it was large), and 5 minutes later we saw another Grizzley (a blond one ala Denali) running on the left side of the road. So we debated each “turnout” (mini gravel rest areas along side the road) as a potential place to “Boondock”. Many of the rest areas say “no overnight parking or camping”, but we eventually found one that was empty and devoid of such signs. Kim was pretty spooked about camping on the side of the road, in the middle of nowhere. I have to admit it did seem strange.

The next morning, we got up, and it was snowing! The ground was still to warm (probably 42 degrees F) for accumulation, but no doubt it was snowing. Furthermore, I opened the shade in the windshield, and there was an airplane parked directly in front of us! When I went out to get the Jeep ready to go, I waved at the pilot who waved back. After the jeep was ready to go, I walked over to the plane. It was a very well maintained “piper” (I assume a cub), white with read trim. The pilot rolled down the window and we had a nice chat. “Where’d you land this thing?”… “Right over there on the road”… “Everything OK?”… “Yeah, I can’t fly in this weather, this had happened before”… He told me he was headed to Arizona from the Kenai peninsula. We commiserated about gas mileage, and determined that we had about the same range (500 miles), but his efficiency is better (48 gallons vs 80 gallons).

cassiar02
Big surprises in the morning. Snow, and a Piper Cub parked in front of us.
cassiar03
Note from the pilot instructing us how to help him… notify air traffic control of his delay. Kim called from Haines Junction. (20 miles down the road)

I got back to the RV and told Kim the story, she said, “did you offer to help him?”. “I think I did, but I’m not sure”. So I went back over for round two. “Is there anything we can do to help you?… give you a ride to Whitehorse?”. He said no thanks, and we exchanged pleasantries. A few minutes later, back in the RV, there was a knock on the door. Jim was back with a request, could we notify air traffic control when we got to the next town (Haines Junction), and let them know that he was delayed by 3 hours. No problem Kim said, and we offered him some coffee or granola bars. He said no thanks, he had plenty of stuff with him.

We stopped at Haines Junction (one intersection with a police station and 4 businesses), Kim ran into a restaurant, told the story and borrowed their phone to call air traffic control. Good Deed for the day, CHECK!

It was another long, rainy day, ending at “Junction 37” where the Cassiar Highway starts (a right turn for us off of the Alcan). Where we said goodbye to the Alcan, and hello to the Cassiar. We camped at another semi-deserted RV park, which for some reason seems so much more secure than the pull-out on the side of the hiway.

From there, we headed south on the Cassiar. It turns out these mountains produce 80% of the worlds Jade, and we stopped in “Jade City” to learn about Jade mining, and look for souveniers. Jade is expensive! Dice were interesting at $10 apiece, but they were sold out. The kids settled on tiny bears with fish in their mouths. Still, it was fun, and… free coffee!

Cassier2
Big hunk of Cassier Jade. These things were laying all around “Jade City”.
Cassier1
We let them buy a little souvenir here, and they didn’t have to use their allowance. Very exciting time for them! Too bad, you can’t buy much for $10 here.

Kim had picked out a sweet place to camp called “Waters Edge RV Park”, and we drove all day to get there. Unfortunately, they were closed for the season, so we went another 60 miles to “Mountain Shadow RV Park”. It’s for sale, BTW… 1.2 Million. Really nice place, great view of the mountains, access to a nice lake, with a private hiking trail down to the lake. We stayed 2 nights to recharge the batteries. The kids had a great time down by the lake. Biking was tough because of the gravel they used in the campsite area, but it was nice to chill out for a full day and not do much.

cassiar12
View from our campsite at Mountain Shadow. I wonder if they used to have glaciers over there?
cassiar11
Our lonely RV taken from the path to the lake.
cassiar10
Jump-ropes, if you only use them for jumping, you’ve greatly underestimated them.

cassiar09

cassiar08
Kat loved messing around by the lake, playing with various sticks down there.

cassiar07

cassiar06
Some fun little places to hike around Mountain Shadow park. In hindsight, some of the “social trails” are really bear or moose trails.
cassiar05
The trail from the campground leads to this view of the lake and crude bench. Very peaceful spot.
cassiar04
The kids in the orange van were a pain in the butt on the road the next day! So slow

Cassier12

Cassier11
Nary a fallen log is ever safe from scampering kids on this trip!

From there, we continued south. Some nice folks from MO we had met in Homer (Dempsey was his name), had told us about the bear watching in Hyder Alaska. Demp suggested that camping was better in Stewart B.C., and Hyder was a short drive over. It also happened that the Chiefs were playing the Eagles on Thursday Night Football this night. After some debate (and begging by me), we decided to camp in Stewart B.C. Thur night, so I could watch the Chiefs, and we could pop over to Hyder to see the bears.

Thankfully, there is at least one “sports” bar in Stewart, and Sportsnet broadcasts the Thur Night Football games in Canada. I found a spot to watch: “Casey’s Pub” adjacent to the “King George” hotel in Stewart. Got there 20 minutes till kick off, enough time to get the bartender to turn on the game, and settle in for some pregame. I ordered a Sleeman Honey Brown, and a Denver sandwich. Think ham, green pepper, onion, cheese, and scrambled eggs served on toast (with fries too). It was great. The Chiefs won handily, and the first half was full of big plays by the Chiefs defense and special teams. I got to know some of the regulars at Caseys… mostly guys there for the last 4 months working on a new bridge. I told them they needed to work on their grading on the west end of the temporary bridge, because I almost tipped over coming up.

This place is surreal.  Mountains, Glaciers, Fjords, RIvers, Bears.... and a nice little town built on mining, tourism, and shipping apparently.  The port never freezes over.
This place is surreal. Mountains, Glaciers, Fjords, RIvers, Bears…. and a nice little town built on mining, tourism, and shipping apparently. The port never freezes over.
This is the place that advertised on the web "come in to watch sports!".  Sounds perfect to me.
This is the place that advertised on the web “come in to watch sports!”. Sounds perfect to me.
Nothing on draft, list of beers were pretty much all boring.  This was actually pretty good.  A Sleeman commercial came on as I took my first sip, fate?
Nothing on draft, list of beers were pretty much all boring. This was actually pretty good. A Sleeman commercial came on as I took my first sip, fate?
I thought I was ordering an omelet (Denver Omelet), turns out it was a Denver Sandwich. Stick-to-your-ribs tasty!
I thought I was ordering an omelet (Denver Omelet), turns out it was a Denver Sandwich. Stick-to-your-ribs tasty!

The next morning, we got up “early”, and went to Hyder AK to look for bears. Quickly as we pulled into town, Kim spotted a black bear on the left side of the road, so we pulled over. Kim asked me to kill the engine, because our clutch is screeching. We got a pretty good look at him (20 seconds), before he went into the bushes and disappeared. We found the “wildlife viewing platform” west of town, and it was amazing. It’s like a boardwalk that juts out between the river and a little pool that is fed by another river. There were tons of fish (dead and alive) around there, and many birds hanging out (and some eating). We waited for maybe 30 minutes or so, but didn’t see any bears. The forest was really nice at 7:30, there was a light rain, and we enjoyed watching the birds and the fish. I guess the bear watching is best there when the salmon are spawning heavy. We should have gone to the dump (but we didn’t learn of this until we crossed the border and the Canadian border agent told us). We went home and rested, then later that day when we left town, I noticed that my pub buddies had corrected the problem that I complained about the night before! I honked to one of them, operating the heavy equipment on my way by, and he waved. It was weird.

So from there, we continued south and reached Vanderhoof B.C. We stayed at “Dave’s RV Park”. Nice enough place. While there, Kim received texts informing us of a friend’s suicide and another friends need for further brain surgery. We’ve been praying for them and their families regularly.

Some of these RV parks really try to nickel and dime you to death! WiFi: 3 dollars, Cable TV: 5 dollars, Shower: 75 cents, Sewer Hookups, charges for the 2 kids, etc etc. Drives me nuts sometimes!

The next day, we drove to Cache Creek. This part of the drive really surprised me, as we started back into the mountains, and the scenery was quite nice. We got there after dark, and it was tight. I’ve decided I don’t like driving the RV at night, because I can’t see 100 feet in front of me when there is oncoming traffic. It’s scary.

The kids played outside all morning at Cache Creek, the campground was “Brookside”, and as the name implies has a creek. It also had a nice playground (that was free!). The kids played, and we explored the creek looking for fish. It was a glorious morning.

The drive from Cache Creek to Vancouver was a bit rougher than I expected. Lots of it was coming across a mountain pass, lots of elevation changes, and some quick, windy sections that will sneak up on you. All two lanes to this point. Once we got close to Vancouver, we got a 4 lane road and thought we were in heaven! That ended when the heavy rain hit, and we got stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic in the tunnel. I had to go to the bathroom so badly, that I asked Kim to drive, she swapped in, and I went. It was her second chance to drive, and thankfully she only had to pull forward and stop 2/3 times. Worked like a champ!

Vancouver looks amazing so far. Coming in, I was reminded of San Francisco with the hills and the houses up on the hills overlooking the bay. Downtown has a Seattle vibe, but it seems a tad bit more diverse, and I’d say a healthy amount of “grit”. To me, it seems like a sweet spot between the two cities (San Fran and Seattle). But that’s a 3 day assessment. There is a ton going on, it’s very clean, and tons of residential stuff downtown. Seems to be thriving to me. They say forest fires are vital to renew the forests. I wonder if the same is true for cities? They evidently had a doozy in the late 1800’s. I Love this city! And Stanley Park is my new favorite city park!

There’s copper in them thar hills!

Well, first things first, big thanks to our friend Bob! We’d have never known about McCarthy or Kennecott if it weren’t for Bob’s crazy motorcycle trip, and telling us about it. We didn’t experience Wrangell Elias the way he did with cramp-ons and ice axes, but none-the-less had a great time learning some Alaskan history.

On our way back North from Valdez, we made a right turn and went to Chitina. We camped there, with amazing views of the edge of the largest NP in NA (13 Million Acres!). The next morning we loaded the jeep (actually unloaded first, then re-loaded) for our first “roadtrip within a roadtrip”. We drove 60 miles from Chitina to McCarthy in the jeep. This road is notoriously bad, and we’d been warned by folks we’d met already. It was rough and bumpy the first 5 miles and the last 10 miles or so, but otherwise pretty good. Amazing views, especially given the fall colors popping out now. One sort of damper was our jeep clutch started sounding like a worn out serpentine belt (very loud screeching), but we made it.

So, a bit of history… it turns out McCarthy is not really the main attraction to this area. It all started when a couple of prospectors went to a trade post in SE Alaska and saw Tlingit indians there trading beautiful copper made goods. Evidently, the Indians were not known to be big miners, so the prospectors had to ask “where’d you get this stuff?!” (I’m sure they played it cool at the time). I guess the answer was honest and detailed enough, that within a year the prospector’s were able to find the place. What they found was the single greatest source of grade A copper ever. They built a cabin, applied for a homestead claim, and went in search of investors.

The search took them to a newly graduated ivy league engineer named Steven Birch. Birch was naive enough to take on the task of designing the mine, and had rich neighbors. The rich neighbors got some other rich friends together (the Morgans of JP Morgan and the Guggenheims), and they started the Alaskan Syndicate which provided the 1 million in seed money required to start mining. They were able to mine enough silver to fund most of the rest of the construction of the copper operation. Depending on who you ask, they grossed between 100 and 300 million dollars (this is early 1900’s), in today’s money more like 2-6 Billion. According to our guide, the two original propectors were sqeezed out and didn’t get a dime. (after 5 years in court, they were unable to beat the fact that the judge was in the syndicates back pocket).

At any rate, once the grade A copper ran out, and the price of Copper dropped, the closed the mine and left it pretty much as it was.
Once they got tired or fighting all of the injury lawsuits, the syndicate donated the mine to the Park Service.

Birch had rules, and two of them contributed to high turn-over in the ranks: you can’t have your family with you, and you can’t drink liquor. As a result, enterprising minds got together, and founded the city of McCarthy, 5 miles down the road from the Kennecott mine. Here, hardworking minors could spend their $5.50 per shift on booze, gambling, and women! It was a raging success. In fact, it improved turn-over so much, Birch even secretly funneled money back into McCarthy.

So you have a really cool “deserted” Copper Mine, in the middle of nowhere, and a ghost town 5 miles down the road from nowhere. Today, if you live in McCarthy, you can pay to use a private bridge to bring cars over, but tourists can only arrive on foot. (or as Bob did via hand-operated trolly).

We parked our car at the foot bridge, walked across the bridge and up the hill 1/2 mile to McCarthy. The next shuttle was in about an hour. McCarthy was pretty cool, but mostly closed, so we did what we normally do, we ate granola bars, the kids found some dogs to pet and play fetch with. Kim engaged anyone she could find with her smiling, inquisitory banter. I looked for coffee, failed, found a bench and sat down.

After Kat wore out two dogs and started fetching her own stick, we got the bus and arrived in time for the 3:30 mill tour. We got lots of stories and history from our guide. We also were able to tour a bunkhouse, and the powerplant. Got some great pictures, and we could really feel this history of the place.

After the tour, we grabbed the last shuttle back to the bridge, and went to stay the night at the “large” cabin Kim had rented. I put large in quotes, because it was a one room cabin, which was actually quite nice and cozy, but it was only large in comparison to a couple of the “Apen Meadows B&B”‘s other cabins. It was great to do something different, but Kim and I actually missed the RV a bit (mostly having our own bedroom and a bathroom).

The next day, we drove back to Chitina, loaded up the RV, and drove to Tok. We all really enjoyed visiting McCarthy and the Kennecott mine. The kids LOVED the cabin, and were so excited to stay there. I’m haunted by the idea that the prospectors didn’t get any of the money (and I guess that they kind of screwed the indians too for that matter). I plan to research this story soon to learn more.

Here are pics from this great adventure. Thanks again for the reco Bob!