Ho hum, you’ve seen one Volcano that blew it’s top creating a perfect crater, subsequently filled with melted snow to become a pristine lake, you’ve seen’m all.
The video running on the 1/2 hour at the visitor center says that just 7700 years (in geological terms, yesterday) ago, Crater Lake was Mount Mazama. In fact, the indiginous indians, claim to have handed-down eyewitness accounts of the fateful event.
Scientists estimate that what took millions of years to create, caved in over the course of 2-3 hours. Well, we spent our 2-3 hours there, and it was amazing… crystal clear, blue sky, no wind (water was mirror like), mid 60’s… perfect hiking weather. Some locals assured us that we were seeing it “at its best”.
All that said, the State Park that we chose to camp in based on proximity to the lake probably equaled the lake in my mind. It was perfect. Large, treed campsites. Full hookups. Lush grass. Bike trails. Deer. Firepit. Mixed forests with falling leaves. A lake. Amazing stars at night. I could go on and on, but within 5 seconds of being setup in camp, I felt the last little bit if stress leave my body. It was perfect. (except for no tv or wifi, but you can’t have it all!).
Check out these pics! The kids are getting back into taking pictures, since Kane bought himself a camera, and Kat dusted off her DS (that she bought from Kane). Kane had a blast taking pics of the lake, and his camera has a built-in “paranorma” (he pronounced it… really “Panorama”) mode which was perfect for the lake.
We drove up to the visitors center (got in free because we have an annual NP pass), got he lay of the land, drove up to “rim village” to park. At the lunch we packed on the stone wall overlooking the lake. Then we did the the “Garfield Peak Trail” to the top for the exercise, the feeling of accomplishment, and the views. What a day!
After 3.5 months, our hiking shoes are good and broken in!
Kids bikes have to come off the jeep immediately after we are setup (and sometimes before).
This was our yard for a few days… Joseph Stewart State Park… wow!
Our campsite. It was aided by sparseness of the late season, and the face that the loop behind us was closed
Interesting how this sign is totally different from the other NP signs we’ve seen.
Kim and I “almost” had a fight about this sign. We didn’t stop on the way in, and we thought we were going to have to argue about turning around on the way home if we missed it. Turned out moot because we didn’t miss it! Everybody’s a winner.
Kim took this with her iPhone. I thought it was interesting how more saturated the colors were by default. Nice blue water.
Kids with Wizard Island (sunken volcano tip) to the left.
A lot of these are “Just cool” pics of Crater Lake… no story here.
I was laying on the wall, relaxing, while Kim was taking the lunch trash back to the jeep. I notice a couple struggling to take a “Selfie”. I offered (and took) a shot for them, and they returned the favor. Why not, we’re due for a new banner photo for the blog!
Garfield Peak Trail Hike – 3.4 miles round trip, and 1000 ft elevation gain
Junior Ranger in the making
Our lunch spot
Wizard Island
Kim’s learning again!
We spent a lot of time looking at the lake. It was amazing how walking a few feet would completely change the view.
Lots of snow around, and some steep areas down to the lake.
Kids + Snow = Snowballs = TROUBLE
LLao rock. Natives say the crater was created basically by the underworld god (Llao) and the aboveworld god (Skell), having a fireball battle. Llao was mad that an indian princess would not marry him, Skell was sticking up for the indians. This rock formation is called Llao rock for the underworld god.
1/2 of this trail is on the “wrong side” of the peak (no view of the lake). Cool views down into the valley though.
Kanes on the prowl for a photo op.
The Valley south of the lake.
Various views of Wizard Island coming…
Hiking through the snow this time. Parts were slippery.
Parts were muddy too!
Rest break… and some messing with the fish eye (super wide) lens.
Liked the flare.
Kane always wanted to take the lead and shortcuts straight up where possible.
Getting up there!
We got the peak!
Working on her Junior Ranger program. We needed to turn them in at 5:00. Pic taking at 3:45… gotta hustle.
Some nice views up there.
Little outcropping is called “Phantom Ship”, it’s actually as tall as a 6 story building. Kind of messes with your sense of scale?!
Not a bad place for a school lesson?
Could not help getting these of the kids working on their Junior Ranger books in this place.
Kat, working hard.
Zoomed in on the Phantom Ship.
Snapped a few wide-angle shots of the lake on the way back.
If I’d have known catching crabs was so much fun, I’ve have done it years ago.
After we got evicted early from Beverly Beach, we headed south down the coast to Coos Bay. With the Cards making a deep postseason run, and having licked the cable tv setup issue in Portland, I lobbied for a “commercial” campground (non State Park, and thus Cable TV). Kim shut me down. 🙁
Fortunately for me, once we found the State Park, and toured the available spots, there really weren’t any (only one spot long enough for us and it was all the way upfront by the registration). So, Kim (finally) took pity on me and agreed to go to “Oceanside RV Park”, where cable TV was offered. Yay!.
The first afternoon there, I hung out at the RV (some alone time), and Kim took the kids over the beach. Kane came back and announced that “it was the best beach I’ve ever been to!”. I guess the tidepooling was terrific.
The first full day, there Kim had planned to go crabbing (catching crabs). After she talked to a few folks and scoped it out, and she relayed that “it’s been slow”, I pushed pretty hard to skip it and go do a hike or something. I just couldn’t imagine getting a license, renting gear, fumbling our way through learning the technique, spending 3/4 hours, and not getting anything. For the record, though, my heels were not dug in deeply! We compromised and we went crabbing.
The bait shop near the marina was closed, the owner left a note on the door saying “I had to take my kid to the doctor, be back at 12:30”. We need to be crabbing at lowtide… 11:00. I pushed back again, and failed again. Kim ran over to the little place on the dock, and got the scoop. We could rent all the gear there, but we would have to buy a license elsewhere (the Oregon license bureau). We headed over to the bureau. Kim and I had a bit of a mexican standoff. I was trying to get her to go in and get the license (and hence be responsible for doing the crabbing), and she wanted me to do it. We compromised and I went in to get the license.
The ladies at the license bureau were really friendly and helpful (mostly). I got my license, and they took 10 minutes to fill me in on where to go, the regulations, how to id Dungeness, Red Rocks, Male/Femail etc. How to measure them (they gave me a measuring tool). Everything was good, until I asked them to root for the Cardinals that night. One of them was “born in Orange County”, and seemed a little miffed by the request. The license was good 3 days and cost $11.50.
Off to the pier to rent gear. We got the “Crabbing Special”… one “crab ring” (collapsible basket with rope), two “bait bags” (plastic mesh bag for holding bait, two baits (one salmon head, one tuna head), a bucket and a measuring stick. We had borrowed a crab ring (smaller one) from our campground office, so this gave us (in theory), two complete setups. The extra bait and bait bag were 4 bucks, so we were in for $14.
The gals at the license bureau told me not to fish at the dock where the bait shop was… it’s over fished. They told me to go to the other side of the bridge (across the town of Charleston), and find the “T” shaped pier. The super nice guy at the bait shop told me how to get there. So we went there.
When we got there and walked out onto the pier, there were actually 4 docks branching off of the pier. There were boats parked along the outermost docks, and the inner docks were void of boats. It looked like there were people crabbing on each, though not many. We decided to pick the inner dock and avoid the boats altogether. It was a great choice. On this doc, there was one guy with a little girl crabbing. As we walked down, we shouted to him… “do you mind if we join you?”. He said “sure” so we set up just down from them.
Nolan and Cherokee were not first time crabbers, in fact, Nolan grew up in the area, and seemingly has tons of free time. He’s crabbed everywhere in Charleston, and “this spot is the best”. Sounds too good to be true, but great! We had a great time, picking Nolan’s brain, learning the finer points of technique (especially for how to throw out the ring… like a frisbee, then give it a “jerk” after it sinks to make sure it sinks rightside-up), and also how to hold the crabs without getting clawed.
There are varying schools of thought on how often to pull up the rings. We’d heard that the big ones come and go (they don’t hang out on the ring for long periods), so we decided on 10 minutes. We used Kims iphone as our timer, and we were all “Giddy” when we heard the “dog barking” alarm go off on Kim’s phone. Every time we pulled up the rings, we had crabs in the basket! It was soooo fun! Usually, we had 5-10 crabs, some mix of Dungeness and Red Rock, varying sizes. We started out keeping all of the Red Rocks (they are not indigenous to the area, and you can keep any size/sex), and “keeper” dungeoness (5 and 3/4 inches wide across the shell).
We’d pull up the ring, measure any large Dungeness, and throw our loot into a cooler of ice. Later on, we threw the smaller Red Rocks back, and kept our 2 keeper Dungeness, and “larger” Red Rocks.
I apologized to Kim as I was totally wrong about the crabbing. It was fun as heck, and something I’ll remember forever.
Toward the end of the crabbing, Kane (who was careless at times with handling the crabs), had a large Red Rock crab latch onto his pinky! He was screaming, I was trying to put my gloves on, and Kim was shouting at me “help him!”. I was able to get it off after probably 20 seconds, but those suckers are STRONG! It was a good lesson.
One the way home, we stopped at the seafood store and bought some fresh Tuna for a fish fry. We wanted to try to replicate the “Bowpickers” fish-n-chips from Astoria. Then we stopped by the campground office and borrowed their huge stock pot.
That night, boiled the crabs outside over our coleman gas grill, and beer-battered and fried the tuna inside on the stove. All the while watching the Cards game. Ultimately, the crab was too difficult to harvest to be awesome(we understood why “most people don’t bother with Red Rocks”). I don’t eat crab anyway because of a suspected allergy and migraine headaches. The tuna and potatoes were “very good” (not competition for Bowpickers yet). But what a day!
The best ability is availability. See the yellow paper on the door? Closed!
Next best bait shop on the pier. Really nice guys there!
Getting ready… we look happy, but we have no idea what we are doing
Hey, we got a few… small, no keepers, but still felt good
Our bar was really low at first… keeping “any” Red Rock crabs (regardless of sex or size)
Thanks to Nolan, we knew to “tug” the rope after we threw out the crab ring. This ensures the ring drops rightside-up. (it it lands unside-down, it won’t hold the crabs when you pull it up)
Bringing one in… always exciting!
Taking stock. We didn’t care what we got, it was such a beautiful day.
Not bad technique, hand on each claw…
Is it time to bring them up yet?? 10 minues seemed an eternity for Kane.
Nice Haul. We had lots of “near-miss” Dungeoness (1/4 inch too small to keep)
Another slight miss! Good thing we are honest!
Decent technique, but a little hard with small 10 yr old hands…
Kane started bringing them in too!
We’d let the little guys scamper back into the water on their own, it was neat to see
These guys are REALLY strong. There were a few times where I had to just throw them back in vs damage them by wrenching them off the ring (or rope as in this case). Nolan stands at the ready to help. Don’t let the tats fool you, he’s Morman.
We learned eventually the “dump” technique for getting crabs back in the water
Not a great shot, but give you a feel for our view on this day… pretty sweet
Nice one
We got a keeper, folks!
Yeah! These fish-cleaning gloves came in handy (again)
Sittin’ on the dock of the bay
Time to rearrange the cooler and make sure their good and cold. We also let some smaller Red Rocks go
Kat’s new friend Cherokee was happy to play Uno between harvests.
Fresh “claw marks”. Lesson learned.
They could totally do this on their own at this point.
This watched pot almost never boiled. I had to go inside to fry up the tuna (and watch the Cards game)
Happiness is catching your own dinner
Typical time-killing move at the campsite… Biking!
Guarantee, he’s still worried, even though the crab is dead
Time to be boiled, crabbies
One crab stew, coming up!
Love seeing the kids this happy
Starting to float…
Nice bowl of crabmeat
Some of the crabs, cooked and ready to be “shucked”
Beer-battered tuna, yum!
Time to relax and watch the Cards game
The next day, we debated a few options, and ultimately decided on “sand sledding”. The Sand Dunes recreation area (40 miles of sand dunes) was just 1/2 hour north of us. Kim had read a lot about Dune Buggies, Sand Boarding (like snow boarding), and Sand Sledding. We decided that best value in experiencing the dunes would be to rent or buy a sled.
We found a rental place after some searching, and in a moment of clarity opted to rent one sled for “all day” (20 bucks). I figured, we long pole in the tent would be energy to climb the hill, and I wasn’t sure Kat (nor I) would be up for more than 1 run. The sleds are kind of like wake boards (just a wood board with two handles and a fiberglass bottom layer). The guy who rented it to us, gave us a map/directions to a good place, and said “be generous with the wax”. Put it on, and slide the sled on the sand to make it slick.
We drove out (another 10 miles north) to the park, and it was amazing. There were woods, with a short path to a 5 acre lake, and one entire side of the lake was adjacent to a massive sand hill (150 yards long, and > 45% slope down). On the way over, I explained the ground rules of the sled… nobody climbs the hill without the sled. You wanna sled, you get it up the hill yourself, and don’t leave anyone stranded at the top of the hill without the sled. So of course, when we got there, we all immediately climbed to the top of the hill, and I carried the sled. Oh well, it was a good idea.
When we got to the top of the hill, we were treated to a real view of the sand dunes. Sand hills as far as the eye can see, ending at what looked like the ocean. It was amazing and worth the effort by itself.
The backside of the “big hill to the lake” offered some more modest runs, and we decided to cut our teeth there vs the big one. Kane went first. I waxed the board with the “wax for hot weather”.. evidently 70 is hot here. Kane had a nice run down to the bottom of the slope and fell off. He came back, and it was Kat’s turn. She seems to be a natural (and light), so she went about twice as far down the “less steep” part of the hill. Not to be outdone, on Kane’s next run, he started pushing him self down the less steep area with his hands, and managed to go “over the cliff” at the bottom. He went to an area that I could not see, and had not seen. All I heard was a scream, and he disappeared. I waited about 10 seconds, called to Kane, and didn’t get a reply, so I put my camera down and “ran”. He was OK, and had just shot down into a ditch (it was steep, but not that long). Climbing back up was rough! The sand in some areas is very “slippery”. Take a 2 foot step up the hill, and make 6 inches of progress?
After a few more practice runs, we went to the other side (lake side). Kane had a hard time getting going, and I wasn’t sure if it was all the footprints, or lack of wax. (I was not yet convinced the wax was helping much). So I used the regular wax, and put a full coat on. Kane “flew” down the hill. He got to within 30 feet of the lake and had to “ditch”. He flipped 2/3 times (thankfully the board didn’t hit him), and the board slid (by itself) all the way into the lake!
Kane was OK (lost his sunglasses and face covered in sand), and Kat got the board. Kat brought the board up to the top (what a trooper), and announced that she didn’t want her turn. I gave it a go, and had a similar experience to Kane, though I didn’t ditch at 30 feet out, I wiped at 50 feet out. In hindsight a bad idea because my camera bag ended up getting a bunch of sand in it and my camera had sand on it. Thankfully, I don’t think Kim was videoing, otherwise, my pride might have been damaged more than the camera.
It was a great day. It was also the day our dear friend Stephanie got remarried, and as a result, we were getting texts from friends at the wedding. Kim was feeling really low about not being there, and I was spending a lot of time thinking about my buddy Jeff (Steph’s first husband who died). Jeff would have been our biggest fan on this journey, no doubt proud of us. Jeff also would have shredded that sand boarding hill(probably while yodeling and wearing a sombrero).
We arrived at the suggested sand sledding place. The hill was a bit ominous across the lake
For 20 bucks, you can rent these babies for a day
Almost like a wooden wakeboard?
Climbing the hill. There is a “trail” through trees which is easier and convenient from the parking lot
Treated to quite a view of the dunes from the top!
Never seen anything like this, except maybe a movie where somebody is lost in the desert
Looking back at the lake from the hill. We decided to sled the back side first for some practice
Ready to go!
Kat, headed down the hill
She just kept going, and going, and going!
Harder than it looks, coming back up
Kane, didn’t quite make it as far as his sister, ouch!
Yes, I’m at the bottom of the hill now, Kane dissappeared and I freaked out
He’s fine!
Ready for the Varsity hill
Weeeeee
Kim was solemn, wishing she was in STL at Steph and Brads wedding
The board served as a walking stick on the way back up… I used this technique myself
Kim took this one, and I really like it
Kim’s maiden (and only) voyage
Fastest run of the day, by far… thanks to a fresh coat of wax!
Lost his glasses, and coated his face with sand. Kim insisted on sunscreen, which is a great sand-glue
Some sand castle fun at the bottom of the hill
I was thinking of Jeff Wilcox all day
The excuse was needing to clean off the sand
Wax… the red was supposed for be for “hot” days. The white was better, we didn’t realize until Kane was flying.
Hard to tell, but I had probably 1/3 cup of sand in each boot.
Not surprising that in between the Northern Oregon Coast and the Southern Oregon Coast, we visited the Central Oregon Coast! We’re on a roll here with Oregon State Parks, they are super awesome (wooded) and motorhome friendly (large sites and elec/water hookups).
This was a quick visit (2 nights and 1 full day), mostly because we got kicked out of our campsite. (unbeknownst to us, our spot was reserved for the third night already), but we made the most of it.
The kids and I did lots of hiking and mushroom hunting around the campgrounds, and during our one full day there, we drove up and down the coast to catch some highlights.
Devil’s Punchbowl was a favorite.. we’re suckers for caved in geological features!
Kane found some new stuff here… “Pig’s Ear”, and “Lobster Mushroom”. Pretty Cool!
We ended up eating the lobster mushroom, it’s interesting because it actually grows on another host mushroom (usually a russella). It was OK, but a tad bit bitter (not as good as Bolete or Chanterelle). It does smell of shellfish!
Our campsite at Beverly Beach State Park.
Typical view from our campsite here… awesome.
Devil’s Punchbowl, caved in seacave. Fun to see big waves crash in and fill up the bowl!
LIttle park at Devil’s punchbowl area, kids loved climbing the trees here!
Kat wanted deperately to stay here for lunch, but we voted and moved on.
Depoe Bay! Famous for Whale watching, but we didn’t see any (too late in the season). Nice place for lunch though!
Kat gave me her sticker! And it’s true!
Kids and Kim learned a ton about Whales here… I snuck upstairs to follow the Cards game on my phone. One of the ranges was giving me the stink eye when I was downstairs with my phone out.
Awesome park in Newport. Best equipment ever… Kompan!
For a nice break from nature, we scooted over to Portland for a few days. My Nephew, Mike Arps Jr (my sister DeeDee’s son) and his wife Mika, recently moved to Portland and are expecting Iris (their first) any week now. They moved from the SF Bay area about a month earlier to escape the crime, commute, and cost of living. So far, they’re loving Portland (actually they live in Beaverton just West of Portland).
Anyway, it was great to socialize with family for the first time in 3+ months! Also, Mike is a gamer (as in German board games), and was also eager to “get it on!”.
We rolled in Friday afternoon, and camped in Beaverton about 10 minutes from their apartment. We met them for Thai food Friday night, which was great. Then they came over to visit us at the campground. After a short visit, and kids going to bed, Mika took the car home, and Mike, Kim, and I fired up the games. We hit it pretty hard until about 4:15 am, and slept in until about 9:30. The morning was rough, but the kids were great about not waking Mike on the pull-out sofa.
Didn’t take long to get reaquainted with cousins on Friday night
Took longer to get reaquainted with Agricola… it was a marithon!
We had planned to go downtown to visit the farmers market and “VooDoo Doughnut”. Since Mika had not yet recovered from the Thai food, the 5 of us parked the jeep at “park-n-ride”, and took the train downtown. The kids really enjoyed waiting for and riding the train (and it’s fast). Mike takes this train each day to work, so he knew the drill. We got off the train right near pioneer square and in the middle of the market.
From there, we made the short walk to VooDoo Doughnuts. Quite a line (probably 300 feet?, and great for people watching. A few buskers, people in costumes, panhandlers etc. Surprisingly, the line went fast and it only took 40 minutes to get in.
Park-n-ride Mike takes this train every day to work, so he knew the drill.
Kids wanted to call Mika from the station (she was home feeling ill).
Pretty laid back crowd on the train that day.
Kane, excited to ride the train.
Trying to follow the Cards game (game 2 of the NDLS) on the train
We found the place, and a line.
Higher energy than apple store on iphone launch day.
More than willing to wait for donuts.
Sugar anticipation.
Across the street fro VooDoo.
I liked everything about this guy, except his hair. He played Bright Eyes, Shins, and Deathcab…. nice set list.
We finally got to the door!
Racks and racks frosted delisiousness
See the VooDoo doll in there?
Crazy menu, including the famous “cock-n-balls”
VooDoo closeup
OMG
Can almost taste it now.
Love the bumper stickers.
Bubble Gum.
Fruit Loops?
Custard filled… Portland Creme
A funny thing happened when we were waiting to get a cashier to order (we were next in line). There was a single guy (probably early 30’s) in front of us, we could tell he was placing a very specific order, but his voice was down so we couldn’t hear. The cashier was hustling to fill his “pink box”, and then he came back to the counter and “shouted”… “We’re all out of cock-n-balls, sorry, is there anything else I can get you instead?!?!?”. I just about lost it. I couldn’t help but think of a scene from the Woody Allen movie “Bananas”, where he’s buying a porno mag on the sly and stacks in in between Newsweek, Time, SI etc. The cashier gets to the smut, and hollers back to the back for a price check. “how much is XXXXXXX?!?!”. All the other patrons staring at Woody as hes sweating. (or the famous Swedish penis-pump scene in Austin Powers… “It’s not mine baby!”).
We grabbed a table outside, and ate a few doughnuts… they’re pretty darn good! Kat got approached by a bum for money and ran away.
We headed back toward the market, and got side-tracked at a candy store. I have to admit, I was busy watching updates on the Cards/Dodgers game 2 on my phone. About this time Wacha worked out of a bases-loaded, no-out jam (protecting a 1-0 lead), and I told Mike, that’s Game and Series… no way their coming back from that. Perhaps a bit premature, but it did work out eventually!
We went down to “food truck row” for lunch, where the Kids and Mike had burgers at “Brunch Box” (they were great), and Kim and I had Korean bbq tacos (also good). As were sitting there, we were approached by a beggar, and saw several others. Kim noted some young kids picking through the trash can and eating discarded scraps (or at least pretending). She gave them our left-over tacos (3 whole, untouched tacos), which they happily accepted. It did make us appreciate what we have for sure.
MIke in front of his office building
Food Truck Row! Looking for Indian!
Got our food, ready to dig in.
Korean Taco place for Kim and Scott
Korean Beef Tacos… yummy
Brunch Box Burgers for kids and Mike
Custom burger for Mike… Mayo and BBQ sauce on Texas Toast
We were all a bit tired, so we headed back to the train.
Near the train stop, there was a one-man-band playing. He noticed Kat watching, and mid-song, he asked her for her name (several times). She was mortified, ran away, and hid (behind and under) the information sign at the train stop. He invited her to help him play, which she declined, but she did eventually take a buck over for his bucket. It was cute.
One man band, tried to engage Kat.
Kat hiding behind the info sign.
Kat climbing out from under the sign, where she was hiding from the one-man-band.
Kat, scouting her next hiding place from the one-man-band. She eventually did give him a buck, but never did play with him.
That night, Mike and Mika came over for dinner, (followed by more games). Kim gave up at about 12:30, Mike and I at maybe 3:30 or so. Mike stayed over again.
The next day, we all went over to Mike and Mika’s apartment to watch football. Kim made Clam Chowder for dinner, and Mike and I vegged out on the sofa watching the Chiefs beat the Raiders, and then caught some other close games. It was great. No games Sunday night, as we were all pooped.
Monday, Mike had to work, and we planned to go for a hike. The kids got into building Legos in the morning, and we decided to have “lego day”. We just hung out and built motorized legos (Kane made a house with a retractable roof, and Kat and I made a car). It was nice to just stay home and be creative with the kids.
Kat building
Kane cooking scrambled eggs
Eating his own eggs
Excited for brothers Eggs and lego day
More cars!
Kane working on his house with retractible roof
Team effort!
Kane, still cooking, making grilled cheese for lunch
Watching game 3, which ended badly!
Monday night, Mike and Mika came over and we had pizza. Then we played one more game of Agricola. Mike won this one handily. Kim had won the previous 2 (with me usually in 2nd).
Books Kim got Mika (Iris)
Kat playing with Poo… he loved it!
Mike and MIka’s apartment.. third floor, nice!
Monday night group photo… we’ll miss hanging with you!
Tuesday, we took the RV to be serviced (oil change, generator tune-up), and messed around in the jeep (visited the “end of the oregon trail museum”, did short hike, went to Target (a big deal), and went out to lunch at Red Robin (a big deal)).
Once we got the RV and hooked up to the jeep, Kim and I had a pretty interesting 5 minute conversation behind the RV about where to go next. We had decided earlier in the day to head East through Idaho and head for the Grand Canyon. Kane was really upset and wanted to go back to the Oregon coast. At the end of the discussion, we headed back to the coast. It’s such an amazing blessing to be able to have the flexibility to have those conversations about what the future holds. It’s so liberating!
After an epic visit to Astoria/Fort Stevens State Park, I wasn’t sure what more the coast of Oregon could offer. Tillamook/Cape Lookout did not disappoint!
Driving into Tillamook, I had strong tugs on the old heart-strings for multiple reasons. One, the last time Kim and I were in this area, we were with our dear friends Jeff Wilcox and Stephanie Russell. Jeff has since died of Brain Cancer, and we still miss him dearly. Two, the place has a similar feel to Vermont, where we’ve had several great trips over the last few years.
Tillamook County is on an alluvial plain, where no less than 5 rivers converge. It’s an interesting flat area in the midst of an otherwise hilly (mountainous?) region. It’s also a hotbed of dairy farming (much like Vermont). and it’s been alluring to talented cheese makers for almost two centuries.
Cape Lookout is a beautiful State Park just South of Tillamook, on a point jutting out into the Pacific. (interesting that Merriwether Lewis refused to call it the Pacific because he claimed it was never peaceful). Oregon State parks are sweet! I guess at this point I’m a sucker for Douglas Fir trees (and the mushrooms that grow under them!).
Here is a gallery of the highlights of our time in this area….. hiking cape lookout (6 miles total), exploring Oceanside beach (tide pooling, jade and agate hunting), and touring the Tillamook Cheese Factory.
Online mushroom research to confirm Kanes find. The big one was “chicken of the woods”, but too many maggots, so we pitched it. 🙁
The Douglas Fir forests here along the coast are perfect for mushroom hunting. Kane found these Chanterelles in the campground. So proud of the fact that another camper was excited about Kane’s find, and he gave her a mushroom (without prompting from Kim).
The most incredible sauteed mushrooms ever. Chanerelles. 3 TBS olive oil, 3 TBS Butter, 3 cloves garlic sliced. Tiny bit of salt right at the end. WOW
Typical of the non-muddy (first 1/2) of this hike…. so nice!
First vista off of the Cape Lookout trail hike. Reminded me of Waikiki beach from the volcano.
This tree didn’t scare me, but the cliff to the right sure did. (you can’t really appreciate it from this pic, 30 foot drop)
Stumbled upon a couple of these guys on this hike. Alaska had lulled us into a false sense of “no snakes”, mostly because they don’t have any there. (nor poisonous spiders or ticks).
Happy Hiker, properly layered.
Looking for good ones for Daddy to smash later.
Very representative of this area, it is sooooo gorgeous.
Snack time at the end of the hike! We’re eating our share of Kind and Granola bars! Kane is sad, because 5 minutes earlier, I slipped in the mud and totally smashed our mushrooms (all of them). We had found some nice Chanty’s and Boletes on this hike.
Periodic Vistas to the south from Cape Lookout hike. At times, I felt like we were at a Caribbean island.
View of Oceanside beach from our parking spot.
Shout-out to the Jeep!
Cool tunnel from one beach to the next. Impassable during high tide BTW.
I’m the laggard, they’re already finding Jade (I can hear Kane howling in the distance)
Looking for Jade at Oceanside beach.
A Jade, an Agate, and a bit of sand (if you look close)
So very happy with her find.
Typical view if you look down at the Oceanside beach. We found cool Jade chunks and Kat found Agates.
Typical Oregon coast – ho-hum. 🙂
Anemone in one of the tide pools.
Chunk of jade right in the rock at the edge of a tide pool.
Reminds me to appreciate the simple things in life. We loved this time at the beach.
Some keepers!
I could eat her up, sometimes!
Turns out, Kat REALLY likes finding Jade. She announced later in the day, that in addition to potentially being a vet, she’s seriously considering going into Jade mining.
Someone who came before us to this place, stacked these rocks in this little waterfall. I could not resist.
Don’t try this at home. This is a re-enactment done by professionals. Kane had found a piece of foam that looked like a rock. He ran up behind us, shouted, and beaned his mother with it. It was so funny! At least it was funny the first time, after he hit us 4/5 times, it got old. He gets that from his old man (riding a good thing into the ground and auguring in).
Tides rolling in, time to go!
Taking inventory of the booty.
Are you ready for some cheese!?!?!?
That is one handsome cow, but don’t mind the extra mouth nor the extra set of arms on that farmer… they are legit.
Huge blocks of cheddar, coming out of aging to be chopped and packaged. Love the automation… most of human intervention was quality control.
Rennet (enzyme harvested from intestines of un-weaned calves) We’ve confirmed that it is indeed used in cheese making, and this was the first 55 gallon vat of it for proof. Sorry sympathetic vegetarians!
Kat spent the next 30 minutes picking the cookie dough out of her’s with a straw. Kane was sad… after he ordered the Rootbeer float, he got a sample of the “White Chocolate Raspberry Ice Cream”, he was begging to change his order…. but we had already paid and they started making his float. I have to agree, it’s totally backwards to let you sample after you order and pay??!!!
Baby you can drive my false-front, mini cheese van.
We were disappointed that, the day, we were supposed to go to Olympic National Park, the Shutdown occurred. We had to go to Plan B. Head to the state parks! We planned on going to Cape Disappointment State Park after leaving Seattle, but ended up going south out of Olympia(after visiting the capitol-post for another day) instead of west, so we decided to head to Astoria, Oregon(which is right across the Columbia River from Washington) and stay there. What a blessing! We camped at Fort Stevens State Park. This fort was built during the Civil War and was active through WWII(was part of a 3 fort defense system at the mouth of the Columbia River). The North had concerns about the British attacking from Canada or the west to support the South. British and France were selling arms to the South for cotton and tobacco. Fascinating history, that I was not familiar with.
We spent our first day in Astoria. One of the big reasons for visiting Astoria was to take our kids to Fort Clatsop which is where Lewis and Clark wintered 1805-1806 after they spotted the Pacific Ocean. Well, I did not realize that Fort Clatsop is part of the National Park Service. So it was all gated up!
Well, we got a picture by the sign!Gates are closed to Fort Clatsop 🙁
We headed to Astoria after that with a quick stop to the Visitor’s Center. Our friends, the Smiths, had told us about a fish and chips place that they loved. We could not imagine it being better than the halibut we had eaten in Alaska, especially when we realized it was fried albacore tuna. Well, it was unbelievable! It was so delicious!!
Lunch!Best fried albacore tuna ever!
Another thing that Astoria is famous for is movies. There have been so many movies made here like: The Goonies, Kindergarten Cop, Free Willy, Short Circuit, Into the Wild, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles III, etc. Well, last night we had family movie and watched the The Goonies. Scott was shocked that I had never seen it! It was so cool seeing different places from the movie around town. We also drove by the elementary school that Kindergarten Cop was filmed at.
Goonies House
We headed to Astoria Column following the Goonies house. The Astoria Column is a tower that sits on the highest point of Astoria, where it provided a spectacular view of the city, Columbia River, bay, forest and surrounding mountains. Our friends, the Smiths, had told us about purchasing airplanes from the gift shop that our kids could fly from the top. They were so excited! They had a blast flying the airplanes off. Kane climbed the tower up and down 4 times(he got his workout that day), rushing down to get their planes and going back up to fly them again.
Getting ready to go fly the planes off the top!164 stairs to the top! Kids could not wait to fly their planes.Astoria ColumnSee Scott and Kane at the top?View from top of Astoria Column
We finished the day at the docks to check out the barking sea lions. There were at least 30-40 on the docks.
Sea Lions on the docks in Astoria
Day 2 – October 4, 2013
We biked around Fort Stevens State Park Campground and visited the Fort and Battery. While biking Kane and Kat looked for mushrooms. They are really into looking for Boletes and Chanterilles. We ended up at the beach where we saw the Peter Iredale Shipwreck from 1906.
Visiting the Fort StevensThe fort with the Columbia River behind it.Crawford FamilyKane spotted mushrooms on our bike ride.We thought this was a King Bolete, but it ended up being a Slippery Jack. Glad we didn’t eat it! We would not have died, but we would have had some GI problems.Mushroom DiscussionKane searching for mushrooms in the forest.This is what is left of the Peter Iredale Shipwreck from 1906.Beach at Fort Stevens State ParkLook who spelled her name…Can’t beat a campfire and smores to end the day!
Day 3 October 5, 2013
We wanted to go clamming in Alaska, but missed the minus tide(which is a negative tide or unusually low tide). Good news for us-it was a minus tide this weekend! Kids and Scott headed to town to get clam gun and license in the morning. Then kids and I went to the Ranger led program on Mushrooms. It is so cool seeing their interest and knowledge grow about mushrooms.
Mushroom Program at campground.
After, the mushroom program we went fishing at Lake Coffenbury in our campground. Kids caught multiple teeny yellow perch and Kat ended up falling off the dock into the lake, but was okay.
Kat caught the first 8!Kane caught the next 5 after Kat fell off the dock.My wet little Kat.
After dinner, we headed to the beach for our first try at clamming. We went about 1 hour before minus tide. We headed to the beach and started looking for “clam show(a dimple, a doughnut or keyhole in the sand).” When we found our first clam show, we centered our clam gun over the dimple and twisted it down about 6-10inches. Then we placed our finger over the air vent and sucked up the sand and clam(sometimes we had to suck up 2 or 3 times to catch the clam, they dig fast). Kids were so excited each time we found one! We ended up collecting 6 razor clams.
Beautiful sunsetOur first razor clamAnother clamKane trying out the clam gun.Looking for “clam shows.”Our clamsA naked clam
Day 4 – October 6, 2013
This post is getting long, so I will just bullet point today:
Scott watched the Chiefs game
Kim went to the Laundry Mat
Scott and Kids found King Boletes in the woods
Clamming for the Second Day(not as good as last night(super windy), but we still found 4, thanks to Kane(he found the “clam show” and dug 3 of the 4 himself)
It is so windy!Kane is ready to find some clams!Kane searching through the sand for a clam.King Boletus
Scott cleaning the clams.Kat getting ready to drop the clam into the boiling water.
Day 5 – October 7, 2013
Today was dedicated to Lewis and Clark. The kids have been learning about Lewis and Clark since we started on our journey. I was so excited about them being able to see the places that Lewis and Clark have been and to think about what it took to survive their journey. So we went to some of the places around the Columbia River and the Oregon Coast that they were. We started at Dismal Nitch, where Lewis and Clark were pinned against the rocky shore and they took shelter from the strong waves, winds and torrential rain of a Pacific Northwest Storm. It was the first time Clark described the situation as “dangerous” on their long journey.
Much better weather today than November 8-15, 1805. 🙂
Station Camp-Lewis and Clark got their first full view of the Pacific Ocean at this point. (Sorry no picture).
Cape Disappointment- Lewis and Clark finally reached the Pacific Ocean here. They explored the step bluffs and forested hollows of the cape.
Lewis and Clark Interpretive CenterView of Interpretive Center from Cape Disappointment LighthouseCape Disappointment Lighthouse built in 1856. The mouth of the Columbia River is called the Graveyard of Ships due to the number of shipwrecks.
Seaside, Oregon -Salt Works
We visited the Salt Works where replicas of the structures (known as “cairns”) where Lewis and Clark’s men boiled sea water to evaporate the water and gather salt to season their food and preserve their meat. These cairns were ovens built of rock and shaped like an upside down “u”. Wood was piled beneath the rocks and a fire built and kept constantly going. Between December of 1805 and February of 1806, three men worked with five brass kettles boiling 24 hours a day, going through over 1400 gallons of seawater to make enough salt for the expedition to use on their return home. They were able to make three quarts to one gallon each day and ended up with over 20 gallons of salt. It is amazing to think of them hiking 15 miles from their camp to make salt. Then having to haul it back.
Salt Works ReplicaPicture of what Saltworks would have looked like.Walking down the beach in SeasideLewis and Clark statue commemorating their 18 month, 4000 mile journey to the Pacific Ocean. This was designed as the official “End of the Trail” for Lewis and Clark.Seaside is known for their saltwater taffy.
Who can resist?After a full day of history, we had to stop at the arcade for a bit!
Last stop of the day was Cannon Beach where Lewis and 12 of his expedition traveled to see a beached whale. Tillamook Native Americans were already there boiling the blubber, so Clark bartered with them for 300 lbs. of blubber and some whale oil.
We loved visiting Haystack Rock at Cannon Beach. It was low tide when we got there, so we were able to go tidepooling. A tide pool is a puddle of water left when the ocean recedes during low tide. It is a great time to spot marine animals and plants. We spotted barnacles, anemones, seastars and hermit crabs. Our kids really enjoy spotting the marine animals.
Piggyback rideHeaded to Haystack RockLove this picture of Kat.They love tide pooling!Kane touching the seastars.Looking for sea creatures in the tide pools.We spotted so many beautiful anemones!Look at the big Seastars!