After we left Dead Horse Point State Park, and left the 8 inches of snow behind, we drove to Moab Utah so that we could visit Arches National Park. I have to admit that I had a bit of “desert fatigue”, and I suggested to Kim that we skip Arches. I’m glad we didn’t!
This place is one of the most beautiful parks we saw. Especially just before sundown (around 4-5pm), with the sun hitting everyhing at extreme angles creating shadows and unexpected highlights.
The first day, we settled into a really nice RV park, we went out for lunch (an awesome pizza buffet). and headed over to the visitors center to get the lay of the land (and Jr Ranger books). This is another beautiful visitors center. The movie was top notch, and the exhibits really educational. I’ve never been more interested in Geology, it’s truly fascinating what can be learned by studying the rock layers.
After the VC, we decided to drive into the park and check out the “Windows” area, a well known grouping of arches not too far from the entrance. On the way, we stopped at “Balanced Rock”, whic is an amazing HooDoo in the park. We arrived at the Windows just near dusk, and got some great photos, climbing around the windows. Kane and Kat really had a blast climbing around and we all loved the sunset and shadows at Windows.
The next day, we did the most famous hike in Arches, “Delicate Arch”. It’s actually quite a hike up a long rock ledge, and they set up the trail really well, not allowing you to catch a glimpse of the arch until the very end. It’s a magnificant sight! A huge arch, at the edge of a cliff (actually between a cliff and a huge bowl shaped formation). Well worth the hike. On the way up there, we saw some petroglyphs, and an old homestead. It took nuts to live out here for sure.
The next morning, Kim and the Kids ran back up the the VC to get their badges, and we headed south to the Grand Canyon! Moab is a really nice (classy touristy) town, and the combination of Canyonlands, Arches, and Dead Horse Point State Parks makes this area a nice destination for a weeklong trip.
“Sorry Mustache” the kids made for each other. They can be so darn cute sometimes.
Very nice Visitor Center had rock samples from each layer.
The layers of rock in the area. It’s amazing what they know about the time periods when these were laid down.
Well, I made a mistake. I told Kim that I was getting tired of the same old thing… hiking in the desert. I was longing for trees, water, mountains, and I suppose some new and exciting activities like we experienced on the Oregon coast.
We woke up on drive day in Panquitch Utah (near Bryce), and there was an inch of snow on the ground. The roads reportedly were OK heading north to I-70 (our planned route). Getting ready was unique, in that for the first time I had to climb on top of the RV to scrape ice/snow off the slide toppers (rolling tarps that prevent debris from settling on the slides).
The road north to I-70, was tricky in spots, but not too bad. I-70, was a breeze, totally clean. We were 30 miles from our destination and feeling great. We went south toward Arches/Canyonlands 10 miles. Then we went West, up the slope of the plateau on Utah 313 toward Dead Horse State Park (our camping destination). We started up the windy hill, and immediately became surrounded by huge snowflakes. Wow, this was pretty and unexpected, thankfully we’re less than 20 miles from setting up camp. We got to the top of the hill and noticed it had been snowing for a bit, and there was an inch of fresh powder on the road. By this time, we were a bit concerned, but thankful that we were going uphill, and the road was straightening out. Kim said “well, you said you wanted some new experiences!”
5 more miles down the road, and now it’s a blizzard, we’ve got 2 inches on the road and no tracks to follow. I’m hoping hard that we’re heading in the right direction and the park is still open. There is no place to turn around, we have to press on. By the time we get to the park, there’s 3 inches on the ground, and it’s coming down fast. Finally, we reach the visitor center, and Kim goes in to check in. They acted like it was no big deal. We unhooked the jeep in the deserted parking lot at the visitor center. I followed Kim to our campsite, a pull through space on the loop of 21 campsites. Our spot was a semi-circular pull through, that kind of dips in the middle. When Kim pulled through the spot in the jeep, we had to put it in 4WD for her to be able to pull back up the other side! We got parked and setup with no incident. It was a wonderland!
By the next morning, we had 8 inches on the ground, and it was still snowing. We had a really nice time playing in the snow, messing around in the RV, playing games, doing school etc. I cleaned off the jeep and took Kane up to the visitors center to let them know that our electricity was off. The only folks at the center were the other campers, and they confirmed that their power was out too. The sign on the door said, they would be back “after the plow comes”.
Well our power was out most of the day Saturday, and then it finally came back on. We were in good shape, with plenty of Gas to run the generator, and LP to heat/cook with(we filled up both in Panquitch). It was a welcome “change” from our routine, and very energizing. Dead Horse State Park was wonderful, and the campground is amazing. Each site has a private covered patio with huge table, and some lockable storage.
We drove out to the end of Dead Horse Point, and it was complete fog! We could not see anything. The next day, we drove over to the Canyonlands NP, the kids got their Jr Ranger badges, and we did a couple of short hikes. We were able to see a bit more, but not too much.
The next morning, Kane and Kim got up early and drove back out to the point. This time they were able to see the canyon, it was spectacular. Kat and I went out after they got back, but it was fogged in already. Leaving this place, took an extra hour, for me to clean the snow off the top of the RV, but it was really peaceful up there looking out over the park.
I’d like to see Canyonlands again someday, I know there are tons of trails for hiking and Jeeping. It really is a huge and beautiful place!
Barely beat the sun going down, we finally made it to the Visitor Center at Dead Horse!
Got set up, and it’s beautiful!
View out our door Sat Morning. The mesquites seemed dreamlike, on account of that frosting.
Darn, power out Sat morning, we had to unplug and run the gene.
Our backyard that first night.
Getting ready to take the jeep up to the visitor center. O-cedar broom makes an OK snow shovel (at least once)
Kane cooking b-fast for us.
Kat getting ready for the big day coming
Kat was having fun hiding out in one of the trees in our campsite
Kids played all day, I played for an hour or two.
Try me!
Kane’s loving it!
It’s on!
Games and Hot Cocoa after playing in the snow… it’s the best!
We got all of these for NPs except for Death Valley!
We saw a bit of the canyon behind the visitor’s center, but not much
Jeep is lonely at the shutdown visistor’s center
Kids working together to build a fort
Kat, making a brick for the fort
Coming together nicely
Kim and I stayed in most of the day and watched the kids through the windshield. We listened to music and played some Yahtzee. It was amazing.
It was tall, but weak so…
I came out and helped them build a stronger one with a roof
Kids did this on their own
Canyon views were fogged in most of our time here, but we still had a great time
This is what park rangers do when the power is out
Power back on, up to VC to do our Jr Ranger programs
Love me some scale models.
So, I finally get the “geology degree”, it’s more than “rocks for jocks”!
Have to admit, I’m fascinated by the history on display in these rock layers.
Ravens are taking over the west. Oh and Stellar’s Jays. I think they’re smart as heck.
Hiking to the arch in Canyonlands Park.
1/2 mile hike up to the arch. Kane in the lead as per usual. He NEEDS to be the first to see stuff.
Kane found the arch
Had to stop at the arch, it’s right on the edge of a big cliff.
Found this little guy, and added to him
Kim got some good shots the morning we left.
Colorado River up stream from Grand Canyon.
They call this the Grand Canyon of Utah
Several movies shot here, including famous scene from Themla and Louise.
We left Zion via the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel. We had to get a special permit, so that they would stop traffic at one end and we could drive down the center of the lane in the tunnel. This is the longest tunnel of its type in the US(1 mile long). We drove through it in the jeep a couple days before which gave us a heads up on how it would be. Scott did an awesome job!
We are waiting to get the ok from the ranger that the tunnel is clear for us.
We ended up staying at the Hitch N Post in Panguitch, Utah(about 24 miles from Bryce). All the close campgrounds were already closed for the winter. I had never thought about how a difference of 4, 000-5,000 feet in elevation makes a difference in the weather.
We headed to Bryce on Wednesday. It was a cold and slightly rainy day. We headed to the visitor center for the movie and for our kids to get their Junior Ranger book. We found out there was a ranger program along the rim of the canyon, so we ate lunch in our jeep and headed there.
Kane and Kat showing how a hoodoo is formed at the Ranger program on the Geology of Bryce.It was cold enough to wear our winter coats.
After the ranger program, we headed down into the canyon on the Navajo/Queen’s Garden Loop(luckily, the rain had stopped). The limestone walls and the different shaped Hoodoos were so amazing!
Heading down the trailKids lead the way…
Hoodoos!Kat working on her Jr. Ranger Book. She spotted something on Bingo.Kids earned an extra badge if they completed the “I hiked the Hoodoos.” They had to do a 3 mile hike and find the hoodoo emblems.Found a “I Hiked the Hoodoos” benchmark!
Can’t keep the monkey out of the trees! 🙂Such a sweet sister! Kat is carrying Kane’s coat.
Got my camera!Gotcha!
She loves her Daddy!They could not resist.
This totally cracked me up! We were almost at the top and Kat layed down on the trail right below the overlook. There was some asian tourists(at the overlook) that looked very concerned!Another great hike in an amazing place!
The following day it was 51 degrees in Panguitch. The owner of our campground told us about a way to get our RV cleaned at the local jail. He said the inmates that clean the RVs are only in for minor offenses. Well, our RV was SO Dirty! Had not been washed since Alaska!! We could not beat the steal of a deal(it included wash and WAX), so we dropped our baby off and headed to Bryce NP and Grand Staircase Escanlante National Monument. Time we arrived at Bryce NP it was in the low 30s and snowing! We ate lunch in the jeep again before heading into the Visitor Center. While we were sitting in the jeep, we saw a family walking in and it looked like the 2 boys had on a gold sequin vest, but it was only their 200+ Junior Ranger badges. They have been to alot of places! They are on a 2 year road trip. The husband is able to work from the road.
We headed to Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument Visitor Center next(it was about 20 minutes from Bryce). This Monument protects almost 1.9 million acres in southern Utah. It was a great geology lesson!
We were a little concerned since we had to leave the keys…
We met another family that was on a 2 year sabbatical. The 2 boys had over 200+ Junior Ranger badges from National Parks, Monuments, Historical Sites, etc.
The next morning, we woke to some light snow. I had checked the weather, so we were leaving Bryce to miss the snow! I guess I should I have rechecked the weather that morning. 🙂
Woke up with some light snow on the ground. Planned it so we would be heading out of the snow!
I guess I knew there were several National Parks in Utah. I guess I had visual expectations for Arches and Bryce Canyon. I had no idea what Zion was about. That’s partly why it’s now solidly in my “top 5”, and maybe as high as 3rd after Glacier and Denali. To be sure, we had 2 top 5 hikes here.
Zion is essentially a more approachable Yosemite. Zion is a Navajo Sandstone canyon carved by the Virgin River. To me, it feels like a smaller Yosemite Valley, but because the vegetation is shorter and more sparse, when you are in the canyon, you are treated to 360 degree views of the rock. It’s amazing. It’s also smaller and “cozier” than Yosemite.
We camped at the Watchman campground, just inside the park, which was great. Nicely sized sites, electricity hookups, great views of the canyon, plenty of wildlife etc. Because it was still in season, and we were there over the weekend, we were not able to drive our Jeep into the Canyon until Monday. That simply means that you catch the shuttle at the visitor center (short walk from our camp).
We spent 3 days here, and it was amazing. Day one: did the visitor center (kids got Jr Ranger books, and we watched the video), then rode the shuttle to the “Grotto Trailhead” stop. We ate our lunch there, and did the “Angel’s Landing” hike. It was quite a climb… 1500 feet up. The first 1/3 is pretty steep, long sweeping switchbacks, the 2nd third (thankfully) is relatively flat trek back through a slot canyon), and the last 1/3 is quite a steep set of switchbacks (21 of them). Actually, then the last 1/2 mile is steep climbing on mostly unimproved rock, with just a chain to hold.
Kane and I did the entire thing, the girls stopped prior to the last .5 miles up to the landing. I was pretty beat when we got started on the last 1/2 mile to the landing, but I didn’t notice it, I was running on adrenaline! Kane had no problem doing this hike, but he’s a great climber, and (mostly) careful. When we got to the top of the landing, we finally saw our first California Condor overhead. These guys are endangered (~200 in the wild), and have an amazing 9 ft wingspan. This hike was an amazing experience for all of us.
Gallery of Angel’s Landing Hike:
Can’t beat this campsite! They closed the loop behind us, so it was very private. Electricity is much appreciated too!
Broken glasses? No problem. 1001 uses now.
Mule deer are rampant in here.
If NPs can be photogenic, Zion is.
On the weekend, there was no auto traffic in the canyon, everybody has to ride the tram.
Lunch at the Grotto Trailhead.
A couple of hikes launch here, but only one is calling our name.
Love the graffic of a guy falling off the mountain. This is a MUST do hike if you come here, but it is a steep climb.
Barely up the trail, looking back. The breathlessness floods back with I look at these pics.
LOTS of switchbacks on this one… at least 21 I think and their named “Walter’s Wiggles”
Rare Kim sighting, in her Gathering T
Typical of the first 1/4 of this hike. It’s 80% uphill.
Looking back again, we can see a little more of the canyon.
This slot canyon section is the only relatively flat part of the hike, and was much welcomed
Peek
A-Boo
Can’t even describe the views, unreal.
Loooking through the slot.
Decision Time!
And another graphic of a guy falling! This time it’s for real!
Not much of a trail, kind of like a social trail, with a heavy chain fastened to the hillside.
Views keep getting better, but watch your step!
Virgin river below, and probably a few sacrafices made from up here too
Looking back on the ridge we crossed
This is typical of the last .5 miles of this. Not for the faint of heart.
Even tying his shoes, Kane can’t help himself from the view
At the top, we made it!
Had to have someone take this.
Coming back, across the ridge.
Kane was very cautious and responsible on this hike, he did great.
They’d been waiting all day to see a California Condor. He showed up just after we got to the end.
I hope you enjoy these, I re-strained my back trying to get them. Seriously, the hike didn’t hurt me, but photographing the darn condor did.
You have to see this place!
So proud and happy!
Coming down was not as bad as I feared coming up. Thank God for the chain though.
Carrying the camera down, probably not the best idea, but, no way I’m missing this.
We’re back on the normal trail again, and suddenly everything looks different!
Back in the slot.
Great view of the start of the wiggles.
Wild Turkeys hanging by the river.
Hens
I love the hour before sunset in the desert!
Our backyard for our time there.
The next day, we did school in the morning, and drove over to the east side of the park to do another shorter hike… to the observation deck. It was a nice little hike with great views. One thing I really enjoyed about it was the drive over. There’s a pretty winding road over, and then a tunnel through the rock. The tunnel is listed as 13 ft, 1 in in the middle (it’s arched). I had been told that our RV was 13 ft 6 inches tall. Coming over allowed me to scope out the road and tunnel, in advance of potentially taking it out of the park. This tunnel (Zion Mt. Carmel tunnel) is simply the best, by far, way to get from Zion to Arches/Canyonlands. More on the tunnel later.
The third day was epic. Ever since we saw our first picture of the Narrows hike at Zion, we’ve (especially Kane) have wanted to do it. The Narrows is a slot canyon at the North end of Zion canyon. It runs anywhere from 10 to 15 feet wide and up to 2000 feet tall. It’s absolutely stunning! The main challenge with hiking the Narrows is that in most places, the only place to hike is in the Virgin river. That may be a mostly welcome environment in the heat of summer, but it’s late November now, it’s 50 out and the water is 40 (degrees F).
So when I found out we would need to rent drysuits, walking sticks, and special water hiking boots (to the tune of 200-250 bucks) in order to do the Narrows Hike, I really questioned it. Most hikes are free, couldn’t we find a nice free hike (like Observation Point?)? Kane and Kim wore me down, and we rented the gear Sunday night.
Monday morning, we got up early, got our gear on, and drove out to the “temple” section of Zion canyon (at the very North end). We hiked about a mile on a paved path along the river, then sort of anxiously started testing our water gear.
I’ve worn wet suits before, but never dry suits. Immediately, the kids complained that their suits were leaking. I can kind of see why. Any part of your body in the dry suit that is under water, especially, fighting 81 CFM (cubic feet per minute) flows at 40 degrees, does indeed feel wet. It just takes getting used to. Thankfully, we all got used to that feeling, and eventually we reveled in it.
The lady that rented us the gear, said we’d have to make a couple of crossings. She was wrong! Easily half the hike was in the water, we made dozens of crossings, in rapids. Kane led the way, and only needed a bit of help in a couple of deep/fast spots. Kim kept her eye on Kane, and I took Kat. Kat and I did the rapids together, and she did great. I only felt like I was dragging her a few times!
Our goal was to see “Wall Street”, which is the 15-20 wide section of the slot. Right after we hit Wall Street, Kat was cold, and the rapids were getting deeper. We decided to separate. Kane and I pressed on, going probably 1/2 a mile further. It did get a bit tougher, and then ironically a bit easier. We messed around for 45 minutes or so, then headed back to try to catch the girls.
We caught up with them at around the spot were we had lunch (maybe 1/2 way back to the start of the river hike). It was fun to be back together, and soon, Kane had taught Kat his new trick. On the way back Kane had started “floating” back down the river. There were definitely spots where this was best done, deep enough to float, slow enough to be manageable. We had a great time hiking back down the river. It’s actually quite a bit easier to hike with the current!
Anyway, these pics speak for themselves. I didn’t have my DSLR, only Kim’s Point-n-shoot, but you get the idea. This was one heck of an experience for us all!
Gallery of Narrows Hike:
We all felt like space men in our dry suits.
1 mile of this.. plenty of time for doubt!
Love this place!
An omen? We saw this guy make a crossing.
It’s close to go time!
Looking back down the canyon
Whole family of space men!
Here we go…
Lunch
View from lunch spot
Side canyon (another river)
Floating!
Back!
So Zion blew me away, and we did decide to take the Zion Mt. Carmel tunnel. I looked up our RV height on the internet, and it was listed as 12 ft 10 in. This left us 3 inches clearance, what could go wrong? So, we had to pull out of the park and back in, to buy a pass for the tunnel. They actually have to stop traffic for you, you can drive down the middle of the tunnel (it has curves too!). There were some “white knuckles” going through that tunnel, but we made it!
